@ucantseeme 1. You claim that the main drop tension after time and tie and and and... but I can make a same claim: the cross also drop tension after time and tie and and and ... because the string for main and cross is the same... they will drop the same tension (more or less)! 2. you're right.. thickness and rough of the string also influence the result... thats why I only make a quantitative claim... not qualitative! @FeatherBlaster You're right..."Once we're past the shared holes, I suspect the the difference will start to drop again" ... but maybe the tension of the main is high enough because of the angle... I don't have the explanation for this point... that's why I don't advise to pull with more tension for the last few row!
to 1. I didn't want to annoy you, just to state that alot people here talk about the cross without giving the mains attention. You are right, it's the same string and drop more or less. Main are longer, so they should drop more when the drop is in relation to the length. to 2. That's okay. Just want to give "meinen Senf". At the end we are talking here at a very low scientific level. I just wanted to add things.
Ok so just personal experience, my machine is fine with square or +2, I was doing square, but my sweet spot crosses lost a lot of tension. The mains lost some, but where 4 mains would drop, 8 crosses would drop. +2 has helped to fix this issue. I don't know if it really plays differently, but the crosses are definitely holding up better.
Hey Charlie, I don't get it, I mean I don't understand you clearly. Maybe you can explain what you mean with "where 4 mains would drop, 8 crosses would drop"? How do you measured the sweet spot crosses tension loss? Do you use PS? Are you still doing the Paizhuan? Tried a standard YY? I need to go with 1lbs on the cross for the shape. Square would look wide. 2lbs too narrow. 1lbs is fine. Aren't you using PS3600 as well?
I think the issue here is that you have some span of "added cross tension", within which the racket will maintain the shape. If you are in the lower part of that span, the racket will come out looking OK shape wise, but once the string settles, it will begin to feel too soft on the crosses. Whereas if you are in the higher par of that acceptable span, your job will feel better for a longer time. Just a guess Cheers, FB
Square will result always having softer feel on cross. It's physics. You just can compensate the friction with PS on for square.
PS means a lot to the crosses final tension. No doubt about that. And not so much on the mains... Cheers, FB
Where the centre 4 mains lose tension, 8 or so crosses in the same area will lose tension. This is just with moving the string by hand, and I've tested it with paizhuan and with recommended pattern. With this you end up with a bigger area of loose crosses than mains. I'm finding +2 gives an even string bed for longer, as the crosses take longer to lose that tension. This is with bg80 at 25lbs.
Just a few thoughts that I had recently: -What is the ideal stringing instruction here for non-isometric racquet head shapes: more specifically, compact quad ovals as seen in the Voltric Z force 2 and Voltric DG10. ie, should I be having my racquet strung at say 33 lbs cross, 31 lbs mains, OR 32 uniform, OR 33*32, etc -Do you think that having crosses 2lbs higher causes or contributes towards mains breakage? Premise here is that the crosses exert a larger force over the mains which are tensionsed less, hence they yield (two similar objects, 1 softer idea). Cheers in advance to any respondants able to shed some insight on the matter!
1 +2 lb on cross is just a rule of thumb. Whatever works for you or the player is what you should stay. It I string a racquet w +10% on cross and you keep losing game while you keep winning lucky game when you string same tension on main and cross. Which one is right? The winning one. 2 +2lb is used since 1980s or earlier. That is because back then, string tension is much lower @about 20lb. So, +2 will reduce the frame deformation. 3 with New string pattern of 22 strings main and 21 string cross, I would recommend +2lb or +10% on the cross because you have 1 less cross to equalize the total force on main and cross. Just find a good stringer and stay with him or her.
IMO you should let this decision to the stringer, who knows his machine best. I would do 31x33 on mine, but it depends on the tension area where I string. For anything lower 1lbs, is mostly enough. If you realize that your mains, get also tensioned indirect through the weaving of the cross and the cross also loose a bit from the setted tension due the friction, I think that in this area, 2lbs, would work best on my machine, to get the frame at the same shape out, like it went in, because the friction increase as higher as you go with the mains. TBH I would let this decision to the stringer and ask for 33lbs.
Having crosses righter should, if anything, reduce main breakage as they absorb more force when strung tighter than the crosses
I agree too just because it is 6lbs difference. but I also agree with higher tension on the main. I saw some people use higher tension on main strings to compensate tension loss and maintain feeling on the very elastic frame. (they must know their rackets or don't mind to purchase another one). manufacturers have a guideline for frame shift such as 5mm or 7mm movement when stringing. when I did this experiment on my Victor Jest speed 8 st , I could witness the head shape is going back to the original shape as the main string lose its tension. I checked the tension and it was 7 lbs difference between main and cross. and string moves a lot :-(
Oops! Just found what I wrote. I meant viseversa. No one with cross tension lower than the main tension. My mistake! ;-) and wow this site has no mercy...I better triple check next time.
Nah mate, don't be hard to yourself. I meant it friendly with a . Wasn't meant harsh. Everyone makes mistakes here from time to time include me.
If explain in maths formula, it shouldn't +2lbs on cross. Formula : Main lbs = Cross lbs Main = 22 Strings , Cross = 21 Strings (76 holes racket) Main x 22 = Cross x 21 Main = Cross x 21 / 22 Let's assume the tension from 25 - 30lbs. Difference of lbs not even over 1.5lbs. PS : I assume no Beginner player with International level tension here.
I thought a few years also the same. This Formula ignores a few other and additional factors: Friction of the pulled cross. IMO you need to add a tiny bit here to get over this which also depends on the string gauge and coating. The mains get also indirect additional tension. While they are straight when you have done just the mains. If you add the crosses, the mains will be more like a bit zick-zack. The length of the main is the same but its way from one grommet to the other is not straigth anymore. This also depends on the gauge of the string. The mains just are distributed on a shorter lenght around the racket, while the crosses are distributed on a bigger distance. The the forces don't are applied even like on a simple construction like a full circle. Also the areas of the frame profile matter, because the racket on the top is mostly thinner than the top. IMO as long as the racket comes out of the machine the same as it went in and maintain its shape like unstrung for a while, the stringer did it right. As long as the frame comes out fat and short or narrow and long, the stringer did something not right. The result also depends on the machine and the stringers flow and practice. No offense, your formula is simple and makes think, but also just treat the topic in one dimension. IMO you need to fix the gauge of the string and measure the hole racket and need to make some material tests, to get it perfect and proof. Just my 2 cents and thoughts about math and formulas.
That's gonna be tones of experiments to test and every each strings on oval frame racket get different length. I would say basically the formulas works atleast 70% and the others 30% additional factors goes to the length, texture & gauge of strings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
