I pre-weave the racket the same way. The pre-weave doesn't affect how I string it (whether 1 or 2 piece and top down or bottom up) because I adjust/cut/modify the string on the machine accordingly.
sir dinks, now that u do 2 pc stringing, btw im sorry if this has been asked before, im aware u being doing more 2pc stringing recently, wht know to u use as ur starting knot?the standard starting knot?im just asking cuz using the tennis starting knot as explained in this link http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/knots.htm and the knot seems to get stuck in the grommet:S argh!!:crying:
I only do 2-Piece Top Down stringing now. I find it to be the best. While the tennis knots in the link you provided are great for tennis, they are not effective for badminton rackets which have much thinner string. My starting knot is a modified, I don't even know what to call it, I guess it should be called the PSK (Panda Starting Knot). It's a full knot, followed by a half knot followed by a full knot with a twist. I sit the knot on top of the grommet so can't come undone and won't slip. Hard to explain but it looks like this: I'd have to do a detailed step-by-step to show how it's done. My tie-off knots are a full knot followed by another full knot with a twist on top of the first knot, again, sitting on top of the grommet. The picture above is BG66 so basically an other string will sit even better.
This one shows a starting knot with only two loops, which is adequate for the thicker tennis string but not for badminton. For badminton, you should go for 5 loops. Doing 5 loops by hand is almost impossible, so you get around it. There is a special technique to do this. You need to have a small 4" long rubber or plastic hose to loop the 5 loops, after that you slip the hose out and then use both hands to pull and tighten lightly the 2 separate sides of the string end. Do not use a drinking straw because it is not flexible enough. You then use a small plier to hold on to the end of the string and then proceed to tension the first cross string.
I just do a load of half hitches. Just loop the string around the main, pull through the loop and tighten real good and from different angles. Reapeat as many times as you feel necessary to plug the grommit. For bg65 i do maybe 3-4 , and others 4-5. In truth 2-3 is probably enough, but better to be safe than sorry, plus i think it looks kinda cool.
:crying: The links in #1 post don't work for me, say: Sorry, the file you requested is not available. Possible reasons include: - File date limit has expired. - File was not successfully uploaded. Please contact the uploader and ask them to upload the file again. sendspace is not able to help you in this matter. Please help. Thanks.
My way of stringing Stringing for a while now. I see many things I do right as said here. And others differ a bit. So, 2piece stringing, Top-Down Crosses. -Cutting old strings from center to outwards, alternating 3mains, 3 crosses. -Setting the racquet on the stringing machine. Just putting it against the frame. -Setting the tension and beginning to string mains, 2 on a side, and 2 on the other. Using old pattern (not jumping from B9 to B12) except on Nanospeed and AT Ones. Tying knot on B7 (Pro Knot and Half Hitched if big grommet or thin string). Using the awl gently to hold tension before knotting. -Tying knot a A6 for beginning crosses (used to be Pro Knot + Half hitched, recently trying some Starting knot with 3-4 loops, not easy to do). -People who taught me to string told me to LOWER tension for crosses (as they're shorter). So -3LBS on 2first crosses, -2 on 3next ones, -1 on all centre ones, then again -2 on 3latter ones and -3 on latter ones, near the throat. Curiously, I think that doing this (opposite to higher tension on crosses) should make the frame look rounder but it doesn't. The only bad thing is that the 2 V-Shape sides support on top of frame don't fit to the frame when job is finished. A matter of some millimeters. -Crossing down to B8 (where B9 seems recommended here?) and tying on B6 or B5 (pro Knot + Hhitched knot again). What to think about this? Machine is a Crank, Tyger. Using fixed clamps or flying clamps. At tensions from 18 to 25 pounds. 6point suspension mounting system. I don't know if it's right, but the plastic used on the mounting system is hard plastic, no rubber, so quite slippery, frame sometimes moving a bit when getting or releasing tension :-s. Looking like this : http://www.photostringer.com/images/tyger_stringeco_65.jpg. Considering buying a pro's pro Comet 1 could change something? ( http://www.tecnnis.be/shop/product_info.php/cPath/25/products_id/349 ) Better to have side-support arms moving seperately, or self-centering side-support arms? Better to have suspension or hold down system? Many questions, I know... And sorry for the bad english. I lack a bit practice... Thank you to all answering members
Akasanva: Regardless of what set-up you have, the goal is to string the racket and get it as close as possible to the original, unstrung shape. To do this, you will need to experiment a bit. Most stringers string the mains first, then the crosses. On a 2-Point Support support, a 10% difference between the main/cross is usually used. So if you go 25.0lbs. on the main, then you would increase 27.5lbs. on all the crosses. On a 4-Point or 6-Point support it depends if it's suspension or bolt-down. I have a 6-Point suspension set-up where the north and south supports don't do much. To string racket 2-Piece, Top-Down, to get as close as possible to the original, unstrung shape, I do this: Mains: 25.0lbs. Cross # 1-4: 25.0lbs. Cross # 5-8: 26.0lbs. Cross # 9-18: 27.5lbs. Cross # 19-22: 26.0lbs. Again, everyone may have different set-ups and circumstances so you need to experiment to see what works best for you.
Thank you for this quick answer. That's why I explain the way I string. I am more busy with the questions about the machine and tension (quite weird to hear everybody here using higher tensions on crosses when I use lower. Am I going to see differences between my Tyger machine and the Pro's Pro?
Unless you string the crosses first, I cannot see how going lower on the crosses is going to get you a normal shape racket. It's going to be very round. Please re-read my first reply. No one is going to know for sure if there will be differences from machine to machine but it's a good bet there will be.
Yes of course. I may have confused you . I know there will be differences . My real question is to know if I can get benefits in changing my machine. That's why I'm asking questions to know whether it's best to have suspension system or hold down or if it's best to have 2 side supports arms controlled by only one command. As if I was asking questions about differences between your old crank and the 2086 Tension Head. I know it sounds weird that I'm tensionning mains first, and putting lower tension on crosses, but over hundreds and hundreds of jobs, I've never had any broken frames. (Not saying that this proves I'm doing right ;-) )
Answers: 1) Yes, one control for 2-Side Supports is better, it's more uniform. 2) As for bolt-down or suspension, I prefer suspension because the racket can move and stress can be relieved. Bolt down, I haven't had too much experience with it. 3) Weird, your rackets should be coming out way too round. The only way I see it being normal is if you tight the side supports extremely tight.
Thanks again. I'm going to post a Review of my machine and the way I string in a few minutes on another post
