I agree with cappy75, thinner grip allows you to rotate racquet faster. It's all personal preferance on thickness of grip (size of hand, amount of cushion they like...etc). As for overlapping, I used to overlap 1/5, but now I've been overlapping 3/5 with Karakal PU Super Grip (World's #1 PU Grip!!) for more cushioning. The Karakal Kushy and Kumfy Grips are a little more thicker than most...hence the name.
Hello badminton fanatics Well i'm about to start on my own conversion of the g3 to a smaller handle but i've run into a sort of trvial but important question. On my main bevel (Wide one) there is a screw only a few slighltly below the plane of the wood so that limits how much i can sand down. I wonder what other ppl did in this case. Any furthur tips on experiences with this process would be helpful
Hand-sanded around the screw with sandpaper. Sure there's a little bump there after, but the majority of (my) hand-grip strokes are below that point. Unless of course, you choke on the cone a lot. -dave
Hey there peeps, I have sucessfully sanded down my handle much thanks to the tips and info from other BC'ers. This is a really simple process and there really isn't nothing to be afraid of as long as you have patience. Knowing how most ppl here love their rackets to the nth degree i doubt that would be a problem. What i did. I basically started off using a sharp utility knife to clean off the glue residue from the original grip. Also i was surprised to find a sticker stating the make/model and a bar code which i assume identifies it. I also saw in pencil some poor saps id# who was responsible for doing the quality control Using a sanding sponge I did an intial sanding to clear off any remaining residue and to jus help smooth the surface a bit. For each bevel i counted the number of strokes to ensure that every surface would be level and such. I would do this for the entire process almost. After that i used a 100 grit sandpaper and basically went up an down horizontally using my finger to apply pressure on the bevel to sand it down. I would also check once in a while with my finger to make sure everything was level and to sand down sections that were not even. This will pretty much guarantee a smooth and straight surface. Also sanding wise i did not touch the area around the cap as it isn't really necessary. sanding the bevel'ed portion is all you really need. I assume sanding the area beneath the cap would decrease the strength of the wood and could cause it to snap if made thin so I left it alone. Results: Initially had a yonex g3 2u mp55 which was a decent racket and evenly balanced strung @24lbs with ashaway Ti strings. Now its a bit more head heavy (which i wanted) and in my opinion gives me a better feel of the racket and where the head of the racket is at all times. Now all i need to do is go buy some wrap (ran out) then test it out. If u have a big grip and want to sand it down i would recommend it. very easy process and it beats paying someone else $35 to do it.
