String Lengths: Pattern - Haribito with around the world on the short end to finish the top 5x crosses at the end. I need some advice for how much string (racket lengths) should I be using for the "short" and "long" sides? As of now I find that using 6x + 7.5x for 72 holes, the last few pulls on the 7.5x side I need to use a starting clamp+scrap strings to finish off. But for 76 holes, it seem to be enough? It seems like I actually need around 5.5-6x + 8.5x? What is everyone else using? Even if I use single pack strings and go down the middle, so 10m each side, when I string a 72 hole racket, the long side still is a bit short when I finish my last few crosses. I'm interested to know what everyone is doing here that works for them. Pattern Questions: I'm interested in trying this pattern, but I can't read Chinese so I don't know what they're suggesting here: What are the string lengths that I need for the left and right side? When I finish the 12th main on the right side, am I supposed to use a starting clamp somewhere?
For the top left diagram I pull the long side 2.5 racquets lengths more than short. I also preweave the mains so the tails are shorter. I've noticed that instead of hard weaving the round the world, I do it in line with the other crosses. This results in less hard weaving and less fighting shared holes as I thread them before I tension the blocking cross string. On my to do list is trying the bottom up victor style rather than the 5050 ish top down.
Is it just me or do these patterns miss the loopback on outer mains that the old mx 80 hole pattern uses?
Yeah it's not shown there. Also on the 72 hole pattern, the 3rd from the top cross is green? How could that string go there when there's no returning string?
I'm pulling from a reel so I'm wondering what's the correct approximate lengths, maybe 5.5x short and 8x long?
If I'm using a reel and want to save string, I'll measure off 9m and use 5 racket lengths for the short side. This means not enough slack to weave one ahead when doing the last few bottom crosses and the top ones, so adds a few minutes to the stringing time. If using a 10m pack, 6 racket lengths for short side is enough to be able to weave one ahead with plenty of spare at the end.
I can't spare the chance to mention once more my favorite Haribito variant. I have tried all the others that are shown above, but this one to me has the smoothest flow and works on all type of rackets: In short: - measure 5.5 racket lengths short side, 7.5 racket lengths long side (last 2-3 crosses top and bottom will be a hard weave) - start with mains as usual, clamp short side after 10th main at 2 o'clock with starting clamp or flying clamp from on the outside - with the long side, finish 10th main, then switch to crosses starting at the lowest shared hole - tension crosses downwards for 10 strings, then clamp long side with starting or flying clamp at 8 o'clock - with short side finish the last main and then finish the final crosses downwards, then tie off short side - with long side finish last main and the missing crosses on top of the racket, then tie off long side There might be a way to avoid using a second flying or starting clamp (e.g. to remove the first one and use the normal fixed clamp after finishing the 10th cross, then do the final main on the long side and use it again to clamp the long side at 10 o'clock), but I simply got used to doing it that way. Especially using YY-style flying clamps with a small piece of cardboard or thin neoprene between frame and clamp has proven to be the perfect solution (thanks to @Mark A for that tip!). Pros: - a lot of string between knots and the first sweet spot strings (4-5 crosses plus last main) in which potential tension loss from the knot can distribute before reaching the sweet spot - very little string running on the outside of the frame -> in theory less tension loss over time and a very neat and tidy look Cons: - some extra hassle with starting or flying clamps compared to a classic 2-piece pattern
I use something similar for one-piece but I don't do as many crosses with the short side; my short side only does three or four crosses but that's still quite a lot of fritction before the knot. My way: mains as usual (with the Yonex reversal, coming out at T10); short side up to T11 then down to the bottom - long side up to T12 and on to the top.
Haribito Pro is my preferred one piece pattern when requested or when the racket grommet setup forces it so (Head Metallix 8000 and 10000). I too love the flow and pattern behind it.
So it seems like, I need about 5.5x for short and 8.5x for long side for majority of the Haribito patterns. Does this change if it's 21 vs 22? So far I found that this pattern works for most rackets, which ones in particular does this need further adjustments, or is this pretty much "universal"? I'm still a nooby stringer, but I'm really enjoying the challenge of refining the process!!
I haven't come across a racket on which "my" Haribito doesn't work and I don't see a reason why it should be different with the other Haribitos. Some rackets are always a pain to string, no matter which pattern you use (hello Victor MXs or those crazy 96-holes Forza monsters...). The minimum string length you need varies slightly with the number of cross strings and the size of the head. For example, for a small headed 22 x 22 strings JS10 I can get along with using only 5 x 7 racket lengths if I'm in a greedy mood. Normally, I tend to spend a little more string in order to have less hard weaves. For big headed (isometric) 22 x 23 rackets I tend to spend a hand length extra on both ends of the usual 5.5 x 7.5 lengths to be on the safe side and to have even less hard weaves to do. I had two incidents right after I started using reels in which my starting clamp had to safe my greedy butt on the last pull, and I figured that this is not worth it. By the way, which small black load spreader you are using at the 6 o'clock support there?
Those are badminton supports that come with all Gamma machines, I find that a lot of people don't know this, you can use for both 12 & 6 o'clock positions the machines come with 4x I think. But I just use for 6 o'clock and use the MBS spreader @ 12, seems to work well.
I recently tried the Haribito basic pattern (usually I use the Victor-Haribito pattern). However, I asked myself something: after clamping the first tensioned cross (step 3 on the Gosen diagram), we tension the first cross on the long side. But the string is under the starting clamp! So there must be a tension loss in this step (this tension loss appears when removing the starting clamp in the short-side weaving part). What do think about that point? Did I misunderstand something in the Gosen instructions? What is the advantage of tensioning and clamping the first short-side cross vs tensioning and clamping the last short-side main?
