i remember someone calling it split prism. would love to get one of those for my D200. nice to have a more definitive way to focus esp during close-up. but cost US$100+ and Christmas is still 3 months away...
really? i don't know if that "split" thing is still available for new camera in the market today! since the introduction of auto focus camera. all standard focusing screen are now "all matte". the only difference we can find is the brightness! but kwun, why don't u trust your eyes?
Focusing screens-and there are many types-are usually interchangeable in top line cameras. These screens should not be that expensive, because they are usually made of plastic. With top digital cameras costing so much, incorporating 5 to 6 interchangeable focusing screens, as part of the camera kit should be a good selling point.
Yes, Cheung I will never get the 350D since you tried that before in badmiton photography. I love both badminton and photography very much and I will consider 20D if I can get a cheap 2nd hand one. However, the problem is I can't get close enough to the players to take all the actions. I will need some special pass or become a journalist in the future. Wow, what you mentioned is extremely expensive. I will broke if I get one of that especially the D200. I think being someone who like both badminton and photography must be a rich guy to keep it going.
As with anything, it's the hobby that counts. There are ways to lessen the costs. Like you said 2nd hand 20D is a viable option. Getting a 50/1.8 is a cheap lens. And then try to find a 70-200/2.8 2nd hand. It doesn't have to be a Canon lens. In the autofocus system of the 20D/30D/400D, if you have a f2.8 lens or larger, it can focus even more accurately with the centre point focus -this is a pretty good feature. What you can do initially is to get the body (+whatever zoom lens) and the 50/1.8. Then practice with the 50/1.8 in your local area with some small tournaments or club matches because it would be easier access to the court. Treat it as a learning exercise. You might even have some people asking for photos because not many people have photos of themselves playing badminton. For the 50mm lens, probably the best place to be positioned is behind the umpire/service judges chair. Then later, you can add the 70-200 when you feel you need it. What actually might be more limiting is the restrictions that are in place for photography at certain venues. I know in UK, they can be quite sensitive. In the All England, I think they'll take your equipment away at the door! In Asia, there's more freedom in that respect.
I've not read everything but here are my thoughts... In most places you defintely need a fast lens (2.8 or better) to take action shots. Without it you can do it but more with luck... I'm using a Nikon D200 and 28-70/2.8 or 70-200/2.8 VR Biggest problem is the lightning. If I have the time I'm using a grey card to set the white balance and hope that the lights don't change too much... Serious drawback of the D200 is the colour noise. Most of my pics are taken at 800 ISO/2.8 and at 100% the colour noise is just awful. When you put your pics on the net, it's not that obvious. How to take good pics? Learn the players and how they play. Then try to anticipate. And let's be honest: there's still some luck involved. And this is personal: I refuse to put my camera on high speed, shoot a 2 GB (or more) CF full and then taken the best shot (as a famous badminton photo site does). This has nothing to do with photography! I'll try to learn from all my mistakes (and there are a lot) and improve so my technique. Finally, it helps when you are accredited and the security guys are "normal", not like at the WC in Madrid where the was a serious row between an Asian photographer and a female Schwarzenegger... If any questions/comments please feel free to ask.
Hi Here are my thoughts after I have been using my new gear. The Canon 50 mm 1.8 is way to slow in af to use for badminton. I am down to three lenses. Tamron 28-75 mm f.2.8, Canon 85 mm f.1.8 and Sigma 70-200 f.2.8. For 80% I only use the Sigma. It is a great lens, and in my opinion faster in af than the Canon 80mm. I only use the Tamron if I am forced to go close to the court. The af is also to slow on this one. Spotmetering is the best way, and then you have to go for a least a Canon 20/30D. If I can, I use ISO 800, but a lot of times I have to use ISO 1600. The Canon 30D handles noise very well even at ISO1600. Taking the pictures is not just taking a lot and hope for the best. Watch the players for some times before taking the pictures, and then it is a question of timing. This picture is Lee Tsuen Seng taken on tuesday evning. It is taking with the Sigma at 79 mm, ISO 1600 and 1/200 sek. I am rebuilding www.fjerbolden.dk at the moment. You welcome to have a look, but remember it is still being rebuild, and will not be finished before next week. Best Regards Johansen www.badminton-nyt.dk www.fjerbolden.dk
Normally in photography when we talk about how fast a lens is, it is the lens speed we are talking about. The larger the aperture, the faster the lens speed. The Canon 50mm f1.8 and the 80mm f1.8 are significantly faster than the Sigma 70-200mm zoom f2.8 in lens speed, by a factor of more than 100%. I think you are referring to the use of an appropriate focal length for a given situation, when a wrong focal length lens will slow down your picture taking. But in so far as lens speed is concerned even an f2.0 is exactly 100% faster than an f2.8. The f numbers are mere fractions used to denote the diameter of a lens over its focal length, i.e. a 100mm f2.0 lens has a lens diameter 1/2 its focal length-50mm diameter. However, instead of designating it as f1/2 it uses f2.0.
in modern AF camera systems, there are really two type of speeds when refering to lenses. one type is what you describe, the shutter speed gained by large aperture lenses. the second type is the AF speed, that is how fast the lens is able to move its focal point. this is important in dynamic situations like in sports. the AF speed of a lens is affected by a few factors - as the glass elements and associated mechanical structures needs to be physically moved to achieve focus, the weight of the mechanical/glass elements is one factor. internal focus lenses are usually faster focus. - the motor mechanism is the one doing the job, modern ultrasonic motors that are built into the lens are usually faster than old motors used in older lens designs. - the focus mechanism itself, some mechanism are just not designed for speed. as we are trying to AF fast moving badminton player in usually dark gyms, a fast AF speed as well as fast aperture lens will be rather crucial.
actually, the correct designation is f/2.0 (not f2.0), where f=focal length, the "/" is the division symbol. the designation f/2.0 therefore means what it says literally, focal length divided by 2.0 , which give you 50mm. f2.0 is meaningless.
Strictly speaking there is only one type of lens speed, and that is the max. amount of light a lens allows in, shown as the max. aperture. The shutter controls the amount of light compatible with the technical necessity of the shot you are taking, like a required shutter speed to prevent blur. The aperture ring that allows you to reduce the amount of light in is another control, compatible with your artistic requirement of depth of field, plasticity, or shutter speed. The shutter does not determine a lens speed. AF or autofocus is a focusing mechanism that may or may not slow down your picture taking, but it has nothing to do with a lens speed. Why not use manual focus? In a badminton hall where you usually sit in a fixed distance from the court, you can use a long focal length lens at max. aperture to fix your focus first.
lens speed usually refer to it's aperture as opposed to a lens AF speed which usually refers to things like whether it has a HSM / USM/ SSM whatever motor.
5D is better right? It seems that it performs much better than other Canon cameras except the MArks in some way. Yeah i know kwun.. ur my fren too.. ehheh
