So my Superstringer T15 has arrived and managed to string and make many mistakes on my test racket. So i decided to string my AX88s Pro and when i get to the top i have slight issue with the 12 o'clock clamp as shown in my pictures. It pushes the top string out a bit. So im thinking of cutting a bit off marked in yellow with angle grinder to let the top cross string sit better when i tension it. Is that a good idea? Am i over thinking and destroying my machine for nothing? Also im using Yonex's 2 string method. Is this just a newbie issue since i dont have much experience in stringing? Luckily i managed to squeeze my flying clamp to clamp the top string to tie it off just about. As the fixed clamps couldnt get to that line properly. It is also very tight/cramp to fit my universal clamps. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
You just need to remove that black plastic bit from the support so that the metal part is in touch with the load spreader. This will be slim enough to fit with rackets that have a high top cross string. Edit: And it's pretty common that you need a flying clamp to access the top cross string. Some stringers do kind of an extra Yonex-loop and double pull with the top two strings, so that might also be an alternative if you don't like to use the flying clamp there.
That’s how it goes. I had the exact same issue back when I first had a high-cross racket like that on the machine. If you want to make it simple, just use a flying clamp on the top cross if needed and be done with it. That’s how I’ve always done it and never found any downside.
Wow, that makes so much sense thank you! I have the same issue with my Superstringer T15 and wonder how people are able to finish this string without "hacking" into it. Does that mean we can permanently take this black plastic off and just have it with the load spreader?
Every machine has certain limitations, that's why it's so important to really get to know your gear over a period of time. I think you will run into the same issue on almost every machine that has a comparably thick main support piece plus plastic pad. That's how I do it. I don't see a reason where you'd need that plastic pad. There are also (H-shaped) load spreaders for tennis rackets just in case.
Thank you! Sorry for hijacking this thread but is it normal for the last cross or main string to loose tension? I've always had that problem and wonder if you encountered that before. For example, when doing the ending knot, that string pulls back loosing around 1-2lbs of tension, so what I do to counter it is to increase the pull by 1-2lbs at the last string. Is it due to the way I tie my ending knot? Or is it always prone to loose that 1-2lbs of tension at the ending string?
You will always have a certain tension loss just because of the knot. To reduce the loss you can try using a different knot or try to pull out more slack. Be careful not to snap the string when you are pulling too hard. You can check the quality of your knot if you look at the snap back of the clamp when you release it after trying the knot. 1-2 mm is normal and acceptable. Here’s how it looked for me back with the T20: It’s also common to increase the tension in the last string before the knot by 1-2 lbs. to compensate.
Its normal for the last string to feel looser ,as it is not locked into place by strings either side. You could do the yonex loop if you think its looser.
Sorry a little confused, what is the Yonex loop? Is it a string pattern or a knot. Thanks for the information!!
I followed S_Mair's advice and used a yonex flying clamp which just gave me enough space to tie off. Taking the black plastic cover off didnt help as there is a metal lug protuding which connects to the black cap. So i dont gain any clearance. I was thinking of buying one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...9616562754584388942ebeed!12000027080870426!im but dont fancy spending anymore money yet as i;m still tempting in getting the angle grinder as a cheaper alternative.
Hm, so they changed the design there. On the old T20 there were only two holes in the metal part in which the plastic bit was clicked in. That's unfortunate. And I guess going for the grinding solution would be my next option as well. I'd also recommend to send the pictures and the description of the issue back to Tennisman. Should be rather easy to solve this on upcoming production batches.
I've had my T20 without the 12 o clock black part forever as well, the plastic has the pins. You could choose to grind the pins off..
I took a soldering iron to my plastic support and made a small indentation where the metal protrudes, this allows the support to sit at the correct height. As you can see in the picture there's now just enough room for the last cross.
Yonex loop On a 22 mains pattern,installthe first 9 mains as normal.Then go to 11th main then back to the 10th main.The last main string will have full tension,
Sorry to bump on old(ish) thread but this reminded me of the joke about the chap whose horse it too tall to fit under a bridge so he starts chipping away at the stone when a local police officer says "Stop! Don't be silly, instead of damaging the bridge why don't you dig the path a bit deeper" but the chap replies "Now you're being daft, it's his ears that are too long, not his legs!" (I'll get my coat...)
