Allright. I'm gonna use this rule. Since you succeed in stringing your Cab right with this method I think It is what I got to do. Thanks Dan
I've done it, And I didn't notice any distortion. I directly compare the unstrung with the strung racquet. It seems to be good. I'll try it tomorrow at my tourney Thanks for all your advices
Hi Lorus, As evidenced by Dinkalot as well as several other persons, adding 2 lbs is a good way to maintain the original shape of the racket. Thus, based on this experiences, I played in tourney with BG-80 at 22X24. Since I bought another Rasmussen TOUR, I was enabled to compare the unstrung racquet with my other strung racquet. The results were quite different. When compared the differences, just after having strung the racquet and after having played with it. This is what I observed : When adding 0 lbs on the crosses : - The racquet is a bit wider from 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock, and therefore a bit rounder. It seems to be less oval in fact. - Also, the racquet is smaller in shape, between the top and the bottom. - On the whole when I compare the strung one with my unstrung one, there is a noticeable frame distortion. The racquet tends not to be similar when compared with the unstrung racquet indeed . - Presently, when I'm playing on courts, I found the racquet to be quite forgiving. (23X23) but nothing specials. No impressive sound, not very powerful ... When adding 2 lbs on the crosses : ("10 % rule") - The strung racquet is very similar to the unstrung one. If there is distortion, it should be so minimal that I couldn't even have noticed it. - When I'm playing on courts, I found the racquet to be less forgiving, but I like the feel, the response, the power better . (at 22X24) The Sound also seemed to be louder. The shuttle that was used was the same, (Mavis 370) and I was well resting So I was on top form. - At last, I would like to say that adding 10 % tension on crosses helps having a more durable & efficient sweetspot. I believe I play longer, without feeling my string has became too loose or something like that. Therefore, I can wait a little longer before my next restringing. To conclude, adding 2 lbs on every racquets is the way to go. To my mind It's better on the one hand for the racquet and on the other hand for the playability. Let us consider you think your racquet is not very comfortable and not forgiving enough, then you should keep stringing with the "10 % rule" but simply decrease your tension As for me, i'm gonna go training more now. Stringing method doesn't affect so much my game unfortunately. There is a lot to do apart of stringing. (learning and training for instance .)
Chilefeu, You are bang on with the +10% rule. Tension lasts a lot longer and more stable. Also, strings don't move a lot compared to even tension (main = cross).
Hi chilefeu, What happens if Main>Cross eg. 25/23 lbs? Will the performance suffers? Anyone care to shares?
Yeah. And you're right about string movement. Usually, in the case 23 lbs main and 23 lbs for example, strings tend to move a lot, especially the cross that used to lift toward the head of the racket. On the opposite, if you use the "10 % rule", these string movements disappear almost completly. At 22X24, my string don't move . Anyhow, on very high tensions, (>26 lbs.) I believe the string don't move at all, no matter if the "10 % rule" is applicated. Furthermore, I would like to say that in order to be sure the string won't move at all on relatively low tensions, (<26 lbs.) it's good adding paint on the sweetsport of the racket. I have a yonex Inking with whom I paint the Carlton Logo on my rackets and it works fine On top of that It adds grip to my string Hi Forumer, I don't know what are the consequences of such a method. I never strung my racquets this way. But anyway, I think It's very bad for the racquet since it could round off it. I have no ideas of how could perform the racket though. If my memory serves me well, taneepak wrote a message a few time ago explaining this method would distort a lot the racket frame. You should do a search into the equipment forum. The last point I shall want to underline is you're gonna lose tension in a month or so even if you add supplementary tension on the mains. I'm telling you that because you certainly want to prevent your string from looses its tension, right ? In this case, It's better adding 2Lbs. on the cross strings as well as pre-stretching the string if you can. You won't be disappointed and obviously the racket will remain in good shape/conditions
back in early 2005 I experimented with mains 1 or 2lb > crosses I liked the performance, but the crosses did move about a lot, and reduced the durability the friction of the crosses sliding on the mains eat into the crosses. I ranged from 20x18 to 26x24 on Ti10,MP100,Carlton Airblade,Monsoon 3000. I don't remember seeing much, if any, frame distortion. The theory is that because the mains are longer, they need to be at higher tension to give a similar stiffness as the crosses. It's easy to experiment when you string your own
Anyone got any reason for why the tension lasts longer? I'm not, at the moment, arguing that it does, but I can't think of any reason why tension would last longer just because the crosses are tighter than the mains.
I think my current preference for M<C is driven by how much time I have. M>C meant restringing more often, and I don't want to do it too often. my most recent stringing (last 6 months of 2006) for myself has been: MicroLegend @ 20x21 MicroLegend @ 17x18 PG66 @ 16x18 PG66 @ 17x19 TecGut Tour @ 15x16 VS Touch @ 18x19 When I string for others I usually follow C=M+2 22x24 is the highest most people I string for go
Maybe the cross tension stretch the main strings. Who knows? My conclusion is based on actual experimentation over a number of years of trial and error.
How can you play with such low tensions? Both ML and PG66 play their best at more than 26lbs-this was also confirmed to me by the boss of Ashaway's Asia distributor who is also a keen badminton player.
Nope, this is not the case or the wording "this string plays best at 26lbs+" would have been stamped on the string packet. It would be no more reasonable for a string seller to claim the best tension to use is 26lbs than for a t-shirt seller to claim the best size to buy is large.
disagree, it might be so for you, or for mroe people. but not for everybody! I'm reluctant to string higehr than 24lbs because: - more frequent breaking/mishit-breaks -smaller sweetspot (not nice when it's 07:00 on mondaymorning) -I don't want to adjust my game to my tension, but the other way around.. there're no universal standards for equipement preferences
