I realized it's been a couple years since I've recorded a stringing session after seeing @s_mair and @kwun do theirs. Also I watched @kakinami video a few times to really optimize my 2 piece flow. I used to do 1 piece, but since I switched to aerobites about 2 years ago I had no choice haha. So then I decided to optimize the 2 piece method. I was able to get it down to a 15 to 16 minute job, depends if you count mounting I think this is probably the most efficient I can do with a wise 2086. As we all complain it's such a slow tensioner haha. All critism is welcome! I've gotten to the point where I don't have any cross overs and all the cross strings are straight. If you notice any small thing I'm doing wrong, let me know! Edit: Top view of the process:
In general, it's a bit sad that due to the flat perspective, it's pretty much impossible to see any details in the process. Would be really interesting to see the differences to the AK-pattern when you're starting the crosses (how do you avoid crossovers for example). Some randon things that struck me during the clip: Having to lift the grip everytime it has to pass the gripper would be driving me nuts (or having it touch it like at 3:25). No chance to raise the turntable a bit? Apart from that, you're just super fast (edit: efficient!) - especially how you operate the clamps one-handed looks really nice and smooth. Guess that's something I'll have to work on to sweat out another minute or two. Not using the diabolo is debateable but in my book, this is an acceptable shortcut. Would love to know what other think about that. What happens at 8:30?
I don't like to use the word fast. I would say this is the most efficient way I can string this racket. Saying this, you are using speed with quality, paying attention to little things. You are not a fast stringer you are an efficent stringer. You are not trying to beat a time, you are trying to produce a quality string job quickly. Stay away from the word fast. Efficient is better =) Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
Maybe I'll move the machine closer since I dont have a tripod to mount it on haha. Due to the way the machine is leveled, I cant avoid lifting the grip haha. No way to change the setting. The reason I dont use the diablo is cuz I've added 1 additional bearing to each side of the gripper, also adjusting the screw so it doesnt crush the string as it grips (iirc thats what the diablo is used for) True, I've seen some stringing horrors where people claim to be fast but they always resort to double pulling, pulling side to side, full preweave, etc. I will use "efficient" from now on
My machine came with an additional plate that could be inserted to raise the height of the turntable. Oddly longer bolts were not supplied but I easily found ones that fit. Even if you don't have that plate, it would be easy to get one made...I couldn't live with the machine like that, it would bug me! If you'd like me to post a picture of the plate, I'd be happy to do so if it helps
I've had to deal with it for many years I don't notice it at all haha. Thanks for the offer though. I might be getting an upgrade soon hehe @s_mair Forgot to answer your question about 8:30. The way Alan shows in his guide about tensioning the crosses, he double pulls the first 2 strings on the crosses. The wise doesn't pull well enough in my opinion to do a double pull. So what I do is use the "Pause" function on the wise to pull the first cross (where the tie off is) to about 20 pounds, clamp it near the knot, then pull the rest of the tension. this average out the first cross so there is not too much tension that the knot strips the main or breaks it knot itself. I've had a few instances in the past where this happened, so the way I do it now prevents excessive tension on the knot, but also just enough to not be too loose. Also, I use the toshi Knot
It is always good to have names for things! I use the Yusuki starting method from Toru Yusuki, a badminton modified method. Pull main L1 and main R1 clamp L or R and then starting clamp on outside of same string, but I clamp R1 top and L1 top but a little lower because R1 clamp is fat so cannot clamp at same position. Then pull L1, clamp at bottom then L2 and my clamp fits at the top ofL2. As for knot I think the proper name should be Gudegon knot, Toshi learned from him and I learned from Toshi. =) Toru Yusuki is on Facebook and has a shop in Japan I think called Forest Hills, I eill double check. Learning atringing techniques is fun and learning where they come from is even funner =P Peace out funky chickens! Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
Ahhh I glanced over what you said. I changed my method for starting the crosses. Now I clamp towards the tail and pull cross 1, but with my pattern I preweave my first 2 crosses before I finish with main#10. With cross #1 clamped at the tail end and tension pulled on cross #1 I clamp, having 2 clamps on cross #1. They say (Toyozouki) it is ok to use a starting clamp like Mark Lawrence does, but I am a bit scared to try it, plus I don't have 2 Yonex clamps at the shop or at home ( 1 at the shop and 1 at home, I don't feel like taking a clamp home everyday, lazy). Then I will weave crosses 3 and 4, 4 is the shared hole and sometimes it gets in a tight working space so weave 3 and 4 together. Pull cross #2, and because I have tension on cross 1 and 2 I use a floating clamp at the end of cross #2 after I release the clamp, with cross #2 clamped at the end with a floating clamp, I release end of cross #1 to clamp cross #2. Tension cross #3, preweave cross #5 then go back and tension cross #1 and tie, this way I am using a finishing knot instead of a starting knot and I am not pulling any tension on my knot. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
I would say WOW!!! Me personally, I wouldn't cut my main tails until I released my clamp, sometimes when I use Aerosonic and the grommets are worn, I might add an extra half hitch in case the knot sinks into the grommet. Cross too I would have usually cut after I tensioned in case I needed an extra half hitch. I moved away from tensioning main and then putting next main in, I am not consistant with my flow sometimes, and you can ping your mains, I felt if I fumbled with a main for a few more seconds the pitch of my main was different from the main with flowing technique. It might have just been my clamps, but I felt a main pulled for 5 seconds sounds different than a main pulled at 10 or 12 seconds, I just pull my mains with the best consistant time as I can, so I don't feel like I pull a main for 5 seconds another for 12 seconds another for 7 seconds, pull another one, grin, let out a nice sounding fart and then realize I pulled this main for 14 seconds. Measuring out your string is freaking awesome, to have that much on your tails, I always try to use my starting clamps to finish my mains and crosses, your measuring looks pretty spot on, are you getting 23 rackets out of your reels?!!! I might get 22 and a main if I am lucky. I think it might be cool like @s_mair says a higher angle, that would be great! Awesome video
Yep! String Measured through trial and error. Sometimes I get owned on the crosses on the lower end yonex rackets because the head is bigger. The mains I havent had it be too short for me. I try to conserve as much string as I can. When I one pieced, i was able to get around 23 rackets and a cross possibly. Now it all depends on the rackets and the tension. Some rackets require longer cross lengths than others.
Wow, that weaving is damn efficient! The starting knot for the crosses without a tail is pretty impressive, too. Pushing the awl through a grommet is still risky in my book, but others have had great success with it. One tip that helped my process a bit was by kwun on my last video: to reduce time fishing for the tip of the string when weaving crosses: only pull a bit of string through at the end of weaving, then pull, clamp and pull through the string while holding the tip of the string, ready for weaving the next.
I was thinking about this before as well, but I gave it a try and its worked wonders since then. I've had to change the grommets I've done this to and they came out fine. I found its better than moving the blocked string with the awl.
