Stringing video: AX77 with AB

kwun said:
For the first generation of Adidas, I was talking to the boss and he mentioned that after they build the first prototype and sent out to testers and stringers, the feedback is that the grommets are lined up straight and won't be stringable. So they had to retool the drilling machine and make them staggered. I haven't tried any of the 2nd generation so sounds like they didn't do the same. Anyhow, all these are history now.
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Pfffttt… retooling my *ss. Those are CNC controlled drills that just need the right coordinates and angles in the drilling program to make them staggered. Not sure if some manufacturers are afraid that the asymmetrical holes will have a negative effect on the frame stability. Else I just cannot understand why non-staggered holes are still so common, even on highend rackets.
 
Nice video, thanks for sharing! I'm jealous of your T20: it allows you to tension the first 2 mains without interaction between the stem and the gripper, it's not the case on my S70 :/
I'm a lot more careful when I put the string in the gripper and move the "jaws" for fear of marking the string (especially the thin ones). Haven't you got any problem with that? (I may be too precautious and lose some time then!).
Which knot do you use?

PS : I'm using a flying clamp too to pull my knots.
 
Brunoille said:
Nice video, thanks for sharing! I'm jealous of your T20: it allows you to tension the first 2 mains without interaction between the stem and the gripper, it's not the case on my S70 :/
I'm a lot more careful when I put the string in the gripper and move the "jaws" for fear of marking the string (especially the thin ones). Haven't you got any problem with that? (I may be too precautious and lose some time then!).
Which knot do you use?

PS : I'm using a flying clamp too to pull my knots.
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I use the Parnell knot and with an extra loop as starting knot.

My gripper (on the tensioning arm), is not sharp, I can use it pretty fast without worries.

The clamps can nick the string when releasing, but that's why I try to release the base before the clamp, so it doesn't scrape the string on the way down. I don't always remember, but I try.
 
thyrif said:
I use the Parnell knot and with an extra loop as starting knot.
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You just have to give this knot a try:


As easy to do as a Parnell and just slightly bigger, but doesn't sink into the grommet. Like, at all. I use it for both tie-off and starter for a while now and literally never had a single issue with snapped anchor strings or stripped outer layers. Afaik it's called "bulky knot", but if you look at the size of it, that name could hardly be any more misleading.
 
s_mair said:
Like, at all. I use it for both tie-off and starter for a while now and literally never had a single issue with snapped anchor strings or stripped outer layers. Afaik it's called "bulky knot", but if you look at the size of it, that name could hardly be any more misleading.
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+1
Since I use this so simple not so bulky knot, for every knot, my 'brain" is so happy (in french we say "se faire des noeuds au cerveau", literally "to make yourself knots to the brain") and no issue and the knot looks good too.
 
Brunoille said:
Thx for your answer! Is that a Ikea Kallax as @speCulatius ? It seems to be at the right height, I really have to try it!
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Like thyrif, I also have coasters underneath, they add around 15 cm of height (yes, they're pretty big, I used to have smaller ones because the bigger ones were not available), leaving the top (of the shelve) at 91.5 cm. Leaving the grommets between 118 and 119 cm. For me, that's pretty much the perfect height, at least close enough that (not) wearing slippers and even thick socks make more of a difference than trying to adjust it more precisely.

And @thyrif, nice video! Thanks for sharing. Also, I use a flying clamp to pull knots as well, it doesn't seem to be that uncommon.
 
So here at 2:50 they're also using the stringmover as I am on shared grommets, so I'm pretty sure it's fine and won't damage the racket. It's easy and fast, if you apply the right amount of force. I use my fingers for it.

 
kwun said:
Ok. Watched the whole video start to end now.
During cross string, aggregate-wise, you end up spending time fishing for the string end. You do: weave, pull half the string over, drop the string end, tension, unclamp/clamp, pull the rest of the string over, fish for the string end, weave. You can do: weave, leave little bit of string pulled out of grommet, tension/clamp/unclamp, and then pick up the string end, hold onto the string end, pull the whole string over, and then you have the string end in your hand to start weaving. no fishing. Save 3 sec each, total might save 1min!
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Incorporated this in my routine now, I think it's a nice improvement. Thanks for the tip!
 


Saw this video of stringing using drop weight machine, very smooth technique like yours @thyrif

The stringer stretches the strings with fingers (mains) or awl (crosses) then adjusts the drop weight again, I think to maintain the tension.

What do you and other forum members think of this practice? Is it good practice?
Is this a "manual prestretch" to mimic the prestretch function found in electronic tensioners?
 
speCulatius said:
Just watched the main and no, that's not good practice in my opinion. The stretching of the string is no issue, but he makes the weight swing, do he has no idea how much more tension the strings get in between. Not controlled -> not good practice.
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Good point. I like the idea of a little prestretch to overcome the resistance of the grommets. I saw a video of another stringer doing it and explained this as the reason to do it. I'll have to be careful not to bounce the drop weight arm. Is that the reason for the prestretch function?
 
toy_cel said:
I like the idea of a little prestretch to overcome the resistance of the grommets.
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There is nothing bad about friction in the grommets or between strings per se. As long as you achieve consistent results, everything is fine. As @speCulatius mentioned, you achieve the opposite by manually wiggling round since you can't be sure that you achieve the same effect on each string. The results ends up more random as if you just did nothing and accepted the friction in the grommets and woven strings and live with it.

Using the automatic pre-stretch function on an electronic machine ensures the consistency. But bottom line only ends up with a slightly tighter job overall. You can achieve the same result with simply dialing in a higher tension from the beginning.
 
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