Hey Charlie, ive actually got a pros pro pilot, from watdon and strings. and also got the stand for it also. i got the crank version, and i calibrate it quite often, but i usually use a tension calibrator to check the tension before i string a racket so its not too bad. had it for about 10 years now and only had to change the tension spring once. the frames and brackets are the same as yours though. i find prestringing much easier as access isnt as great as some of the more expensive machines, so by prestringing you dont need to worry by going under and pulling strings through and weaving and whatnot. only takes about 15 minutes to prestring and 20-25 minutes to tension so not losing too much time there. in terms of stringing patterns, each racket is different, particularly between different brands, and actually different models too. ie i had a few victor rackets, and the braveswords have a few shared grommets (where the mains and crosses use the same holes), but for the meteor range then have dedicated cross grommets so you dont get many shared grommets in the range. so if you are ever unsure google will have the answer. even if not an official stringing pattern (which they should have on the manufacturers website) then just google a picture. there are many theories top to bottom, bottom to top. doesnt really matter as long as your clamping is correct. ie not too tight. NEVER too tight. id rather slightly too loose. basically you dont want to change the shape of the racket when you put the clamps on. starting the mains. i always starting from the middle out yes, clamp middle string at the top, have 2 loops at the bottom by the T, pull the opposite string to the one you have clamped, and clamp the tensioned string near the weight. i keep tensioning that side until i get to 3 string until the end, then i go from middle out the other side until i get to the last string, and then do the pentulimate 2 on the other side. add 2 pounds to compensate for tension lose after tying, and full the last strings on both sides and tie off.
So you preweave the entire racket on the crosses? I guess if you make a loop at the start just after the first cross it's easy to go back and pull it through to tension each string. That makes sense. I can't really think of any downsides to that compared to doing a softweave/staying 2 grommets ahead.
Wait for the 200m of RKEP 70Ti to avoid wasting money I must. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice here, it was massively useful for getting started.
yer entire preweave. just leave yourself enough string with the loose end of the mains for the loops. obviously when i preweave its one piece. and i only cut it into 2 piece once i have tensioned the mains and then the crosses respectively. when you buy a pack of strings (10M) you will have plenty to do this. otherwise from a reel its about 7 arm spans of string. depending on how tall you are.
Pre weaving: IMO a temporary solution if you are damn slow. Especially at high tension you will speed up the stringing which equals less stress. IMO it's bad practice, because you will have friction on the string will can lead to burning. IMO only hard weave with the V is the way to go and maximum 2 crosses is IMO ok. Starting: IMO there are 4 good ways: 1) Flying clamp which holds both first mains: https://youtu.be/EozQu-pta-E?t=1m35s 2) 2 flying clamps outside the top: https://youtu.be/-rI4ZIiLtb0?t=19s 3a) Fixed clamp: https://youtu.be/CCsjl1iuRcE?t=51s 3b) Same as 3a) but with an additional flying clamp between the fixed clamp. You don't need to adjust the fixed clamp to tight, because with bad adjustment or thin strings or average to poor clamps and too high tension you will break the string at the beginning. I prefer 2) and 3b). 3a) is for anything above 30lbs and the quality of my clamps not a great idea. 1) is okay, but IMO you will have a slightly lower tension at the first mains.
stringing is a skill that will get faster over time. soon u will be able to do a sub-30min stringjob while watching TV at the same time.
My favorite part of stringing is watching old classic movies while stringing. Even with the distraction, I can do rackets on average at 25 mins Preweaving: Personally I believe this is the most unprofessional way to string. The strings pulled will have more resistance, making tensions uneven. Of course, preweaving mains is fine because there really is no resistance or risk of friction burn.
Same kind of situation myself. And had my eyes set on the PP Challenger 1. Guess I'll spend a little more and get the Penta Premium 3600. To start out, do I just need to get the machine, string, the badminton fixed clamps, one flying clamp and possibly an awl?
Looks like BC is on a "mission against bad quality machines" or something like that. It will hurt for a minute to spend those couple of bucks more for the better machine, but you will enjoy the better quality for number of years probably (until you buy an even better one...). Tools I need every single stringjob are (apart from the machine and the fixed clamps): 1 or even 2 load spreaders => http://www.racquetdepot.co.uk/badminton-stringing-racquet-load-spreader/ or cheaper at MBS => http://www.mybadmintonstore.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25_62_156&products_id=492#.VqHNgVLzN-g) 1 (better 2) flying clamps I prefer the ones from Yonex since they are very compact and seem to hold truly everything. They are also doing a perfect job as starting clamp. Just put in a bit of cardboard between the frame an the clamp not to damage the frame or strings nearby. String mover => http://www.racquetdepot.co.uk/pros-pro-string-puller/ or this http://www.mybadmintonstore.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25_62_156&products_id=530#.VqHNolLzN-g). A must have tool for threading shared holes Pliers & Cutter Quality of the cutter is not that important, but go for a good pair of fine pliers. This one is pretty awesome and worth the money IMO: http://www.racquetdepot.co.uk/xcelite-fine-nose-pliers/ (Starting Clamp) I have the cheap one from PP but only use it to tie knots. It can't hold anything above 24 lbs. safely. You can also tie the knots using pliers, just have to be careful not to pull too hard and damage the string with it. Beer Also not a must-have but can turn a simple string job into a relaxing experience. Add some good music and you will have a lot more fun than sitting in front of your TV. I haven't touched an awl in months during an actual string job. Only occasion I use it is to widen some grommets before actually mounting the racket on the machine. Doesn't hurt to have one, but not a must-have IMO. And if you want to go nuts with tools, here's the way to go: http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...97-Badminton-Central-Guide-to-Stringing-Tools
One of my load spreaders snapped, no idea how. Frustrating though. Good thing I bought two. Not having a starting clamp is more frustrating.
Did you maybe tighten the main supports too tightly? If not, it could have been just bad luck. At which point are you missing the starting clamp? To tie the knots? As said, you don't really need a starting clamp to get started. The flying clamp does the job as well.
Great, thanks. If I'm using 2 fixed clamps, then I just need the one flying clamp as the starting clamp right? So all in, it's about a >£400 outlay including a reel.. eek.. And the one thing I'm really confused about is the grommets. I've seen there's soo many different types and sizes/lengths.. how do I know which grommet size I'd need for each different racket? And do I need to trim it or anything? (I just saw the thread asking about melting the ends of shared grommets!?)
I had a load spreader snap when it wasn't on properly. At first I thought it was the racket, but one of the teeth from the spreader went flying off.
I ordered a mixed set of grommets to get started in the beginning (this one: http://de.aliexpress.com/item/AEF-b...e/907429732.html?spm=2114.47010208.4.8.aGvm5q). Quality is okay and I have always found a fitting grommet in there yet. Not speaking of special grommet strips (as seen on and Arcsaber11 or a ZF2 etc.). Still it would be interesting to hear which sizes others have stocked since I just can't imagine that you have to have so many different variants always ready. So for example [MENTION=1]kwun[/MENTION] [MENTION=690]emjay[/MENTION] [MENTION=59291]ucantseeme[/MENTION], which types of grommets do you keep on stock?
Grommets. I get types A B F J and U (long and short) from MBS. So far so good. B are slightly short for some racquets, its close but they are still ok. These are 2.1 x 7.9 2.6 x 6.0 2.7 x 8.3 2.1 x 6.8
I got the same Aliexpress set, cheap and seem to do the job. I usually just pick the ones that fit the width and then trim if they are too long. I also got a similar set from Eric because it comes with a few different colours. Victor/Li Ning like to use red ones in some areas.
You don't need a flying clamp at all, to be honest, but if you do get one you'll find uses for it. Ignore the lengths - you should always get the longest ones anyway, and trim them down. The two diameters you will need are 2.1 and 2.6 mm (2.7 occasionally). As far as melting goes, you don't need to do this, either; just cut it as close to flush with the frame as you can.
You cut the shared grommets flush with the inside surface of the frame? Interesting, I've actually never seen this on a racket. Do you have a picture available? Just want to make sure that I've understood that correctly.
A 5 teeth load spreader will easily snap if you mount an egghead (old oval head racket). The load spreader will put a lot force an the edges of the outer teeth and will snap. Easy case. I have 2. One ordinary 5 teeth and one which I trimmed to just a 3 teeth load spreader for old eggheads. Some loadspreaders will not fit your machine and you must customize the gap a tiny bit wider with a nail file. Otherwise it is under too much pressure and will snap easily, too. [MENTION=113405]s_mair[/MENTION] I use for any thick string and tensions under 27lbs the mbs ones (Type A and Type F). For any job above 27lbs or any string under 0.68mm I use the original Yonex ones. The Yonex are much sturdier and don't split easily. The head is much thicker and the plastic is a bit harder. The mbs (shared holes) split pretty easy and touch, mark or cut the frame when I do high tension jobs or use a thin string. I had bad experience with mbs grommets and the combination high tension + thin string. For anything @27 and above or thinner strings I charge 1€ more due the much more pricier grommets. You must realize that I often do jobs up to 34lbs on 4U's. If I eat a leaf of spinach I use on my own rackets 32lbs. On off days 30-31lbs. And spinach is one of my favorite foods.
