Getting started on a budget

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Charlie-SWUK, Jan 15, 2016.

  1. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    Yeah that's what I've been doing. Mounting a strung racket to start with was a big help in seeing how everything lines up, and now I've been toying around with mounting an unstrung racket.

    So on this machine, the clamps aren't actually fixed in the sockets. You sort of pull them up towards the string. I'm guessing that's normal or have I missed something in assembly?
     
  2. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    That's the way it should be. As long as the bases don't move after you locked them, then there's no reason to worry.

    Oh, and you can also practise to tie knots using an already strung racket and some scrap string. Just look for an open big grommet and tie a knot with the piece of scrap string around the existing string. Don't tie it with full force in the end so it's easier to open it up again and have another go. You can perfectly practise finishing and starting knot like that and save already at least 15 minutes for your first real stringjob. :)
     
  3. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    So a couple of things I noticed.

    1) I can't always get the clamps into the desirable position nearest the frame, sometimes other parts of the machine get in the way.
    2) I'm going to really struggle on the last cross, the ends up bending around the support.
    3) Some of the side supports don't appear to actually contact the racket frame, but won't move further inwards

    Is all of this stuff normal too?
     
  4. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    Can you take some pictures of the mounted rackets and the things you noticed more in detail? 1) and 3) sound pretty weird tbh.

    For 2) you will have to remove the white plastic bit on the support: Unbenannt.JPG
     
  5. justinwyyau

    justinwyyau Regular Member

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    I suspect so mate. The M140 shipped to Australia is about $405 from eBay (gulp).

    The other that we can consider is the Gamma X-2 that maybe around the same price shipped.
     
  6. emjay

    emjay Regular Member

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    1) is normal depending on where you're clamping I guess - sometimes the side supports or edge of the frame will get in the way. You either have to turn the clamps round so the handle faces the other way, or clamp further away from the grommet.

    For 3) have you got the towers in the best positions? Also it the racket mounted centrally? All supports should contact the frame securely, otherwise you risk damaging the racket during stringing.
     
  7. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    Just came across these pics of a IMO correctly mounted racket on a PS3600 (taken from http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...23-A-few-questions-from-a-beginner-stringer):

    stringing 001.jpg stringing 018.jpg

    If the side supports touch the racket at different positions on your machine, you need to adjust the position of the main towers. As emjay says, don't do anything as long as you have the slightest doubts that the rackets is mounted properly!
     
  8. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    s_mair is right.

    Contact of side supports: If you don't use load spreaders on a PS3600, the racket can move easily around, which could be the culprit for not proper contact. The 12 and 6 o'clock support is for most rackets to thin. On some Babolat and Forza 96 holes rackets you will be happy, that they are so thin and fit.

    Top Cross: I never that problems with clamping the last top cross on the PS3600 and never had issues to wrap the top cross around the support. One exception is e.g. the MX frame where you can do an additional top cross. Even with compact frames I never had issues that the 12 o'clock support obstruct clamping. What clamp are you using? Maybe a too chunky clamp can be the culprit.
     
  9. Wildstone

    Wildstone Regular Member

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    Hey justin, so which one is recommended then? Klipper or Gamma?
     
  10. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    Ok that actually looks like mine. I was concerned because it didn't look like the side supports on the lower part of the racket were making adequate contact, but from that picture, it looks about the same distance.

    So take the white bit off? How would I do that? Just pry it up with a screwdriver? At the moment with a load spreader at the top, the top cross touches the metal, so I need some more space.

    Particularly on the sides of the mains, I am unsure of how to clamp them properly, because as the outter string has an angle, it makes it hard to get the clamp into place.

    Maybe I need to widen the base more for better mobility with the clamps.
     
  11. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    Due to their angle it's just not possible to clamp the last mains maximum close to the frame. Else the clamp tooth will make contact with the frame and that's not a good thing. So just clamp them about 1 inch away from the frame where the clamp teeth have enough room to hold the string without touching the frame. The bases should be "loose" enough to allow an easy and smooth 360° rotation but tight enough to properly hold after locking them.

    I have no idea how the white bits are fixed on the post since that is different of every machine. On the PP Challenger it was glued so I had to truly pry it out with the help of pliers. Since I was using the load spreader all the time, I had no need to reattach them at some point in time.
    On the Superstringer machine they are just snapped in with two plastic pins so that you can remove and reattach them with fingers only. So fistly, I would try to pull them out with your hands and if that doesn't work, you will need the help of a pair of pliers. Maybe there are some other PS3600 users in here who have done that before and know how the bits a fixed?

    By the way, here is a good thread regarding how important the right positioning of side supports actually is: http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php/148450-Cracked-my-first-racquet
    So again, if you are not 100% sure that the mounting position of the racket is okay, just take a picture and post it in here.

    It fairly easy to check if the supports have full contact with the frame. Just look closely and if you're still not sure, carefully tighten the supports a tiny bit more and you will notice that the frame will move after the supports have contact.
     
  12. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    I can help. I removed mine with Pliers. Be careful. It has 3 pins which fix it to the metal. Don't use to much force. Be patient. Otherwise you will break the pins and then you cant attach it anymore. I suggest to put some tape on the pliers to protect the plastic bit.
     
  13. Exert

    Exert Regular Member

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    HAHAHAHA , my ratchet on my pp challenger 1 already broke LOL
     
  14. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    Just finished my first job.

    1 weaving error 1 clamp error :crying:
     
  15. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    But you finished it, right? Hey, that's better than mine! I snapped the string in the last shared hole after 3 hours on my first trial.

    How long did you need? Have you been able to remove the white bit as ucantseeme described?
     
  16. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    A lot longer than it should have, several hours. I had some issues with the grommets being a bit chewed and hard to thread. Had to redo quite a few weaves that I messed up too. I only did the first one at 11.5kg.

    I kept having points where the overlap was wrong in the string and I had to go back and find out where. But yeah I finished it. Shame the centre strings move around a bit too much because I messed up the clamping a bit.

    I might give restringing my Li Ning a go in a little while. See if I can do a good string job at a higher tension.

    Oh and I had one knot that pulled through right at the start, luckily I cut my string off the reel generously in case something happened.
     
  17. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    So you can now officially call yourself a stringer. How good is that?! Congrats! :D

    Let me assure you - this is all perfectly normal. As said, I was so frustrated after my first trial that I had the machine already stuffed back in the box to send it back the next day. Luckily, I slept it over and had another go the next day which went a lot better. It just takes time and some repetitions until the process sinks in into your brain. Maybe 11.5 kg was also a bit tight to do a first trial. With less tension, it gets easier to thread the shared holes with the string mover technique (you did use that one, didn't you?).

    You can practise the knots as much as you want on a strung racket. Here's a good overview about a couple of knots: http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/knots.htm

    So, to when have you scheduled trial run #2?
     
  18. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    Nah 11.5 was fine, my end result wasn't 24lbs/11.5kg that's for sure. As I said I messed up some of the clamping and some of the strings came a bit loose near the centre. I upped the tension by 1kg for the last 2 pulls as well to make up for any slack.

    Also haha I was quite frustrated too, but for different reasons. I specifically waited til late at night to do it and still kept getting disturbed by other people. Maybe my Voltric 0 will be my next victim.

    I used my Yonex TR1, that thing has an invincible frame to it; knew I wouldn't break it.

    I do have a few questions about the patterns.

    1) On the mains, I skipped the 2nd to last hole, then went back down through it after I'd done the last hole. Is this correct?
    2) On the cross, I did not skip and then go back over any holes. I went straight from bottom to top. Is that correct?
    3) I had a little difficulty starting on the mains; to start with I tensioned both centre strings together, clamped one at the top, retensioned the other side, and worked back through it like that. Is there any better method for this?
    4) When stringing the mains, should it be Bottom Right, Bottom Left, Top Right, Top Left or should it Bottom Top Bottom Top?
     
  19. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    1) Correct. With doing that, you get a shorter way in the end to reach the knotting grommet.
    Less string on the outside of the frame -> less tesion loss over time and it looks neater
    2) Correct. Although Victor suggests otherwise in their recommended (1-piece) pattern.
    3) That's one way to do it, but there are a lot of others (with a starting clamp for example). If it was okay that way, then stay with it for the next couple of string jobs and then test other variants until you find the one you like best.
    4) You can do it both ways, ss long as you keep it symmetrical. But more smooth would be something like this (from the beginning):
    Bottom right
    Bottom left
    Top left
    Top right
    Bottom right
    Bottom left
    Top left
    ...
    With that, you have always two pulls on the same side and don't need to turn the racket as much which makes it more comfortable IMO.
     
  20. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    So it seems like I followed the theory pretty well, and now I'm just going to need to practice practice practice on the execution.
     

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