All you sanders out here, what grit did you use? Large, then fine? I bought the medium, and was sanding for 30mins ... AUGH! -dave
For sanding down, first try to use the bigger ones to get to the approximate dimensions. Then use the fine grade ones to make everything smooth and nice.
Whether you sand it down or plane it, just be extra careful and not overdo it. A G3 grip would have a longer tunnel than a G4 at the end of the wooden handle, and the sanding or planing would be above some parts of this tunnel. The thickness on the flat sides of the wooden handle, over the hollow tunnel, are thinner than the sides. Just make sure you don't have a cave-in.
Here are some pictures of my project. (g3->g4) I use file iron to file the grip down. I also use clapm to hold the racquet in level. However, I did not take any picture because I only have 2 hands to work and no 3rd hand to hold the camera. 1) original grip with over grip 2) original grip with holding tape 3) original grip without holding tape. use a small screw driver to remove the staple. 4) measure of bare handle without grip before work. note that it is 3+1/8 inch in diameter. 5) measure of bare handle without grip after work. note that it is 3 inch in diameter.
Very right. The bigger ones is to get to the rough size, and the fine ones is for the finishing touch. If you really afraid of "over do", you can take your time, sand a bit, re-grip it, then, test it. If not satisfied, come back and repeat the steps.
I think file iron can do the job much faster than the sand paper, if you use it correctly. However, the beauty of sand paper is, you can working on 2 oppsite sides in 1 shot, if you wrap the sand paper around the handle correctly.
Agree. However, you have to make sure the 2 oppsite sides are leveled and not to round the corner too much.
Depends what grit you're using. If it's something very coarse like 80 or 40, it'll be done in no time.
The wood is very soft and light. It took me about 1 hr. About 20 min out of 1 hr is use to clamp down the handle and make sure it is level.
Guys. I stop and measure the handle quite often. Also to make sure it is level and straight while clamping down spend a lot of time. I just don't want to have the handle warped after I am done. I want to make sure the corner is good too. I agree many of you can do a good job and a lot faster than I did. I was just making sure I do a good job on my wife's racquet so I may get lucky later...
Personally, I tend to be NOT too aggressive on the sanding. For me, G4 grip (after removing the original grip) is fine already. Therefore, if I do sand, I just do with very minor degree, such as several countable "scratches" on each side. Of course, that will NOT bring it to a G5, but it already helps. So, my suggestion is, instead of finishing the job in 1 shot, and regret later on, do it in steps, and it will give u a wonderful result.
Time to dig up an old thread. I found I play a bit better with a smaller grip but my rackets are mainly G4. I tried using a thinner base grip but it wasn't enough. I tried using only overgrip but sometimes I'd get a sharp shock on impact with the shuttle. This past weekend I picked up a block plane from Home Depot for $20. It's a Footprint Tools 220H model. I adjusted the plane to shave a thickness of about a business card. A shave was taken off each side, felt for size, then shaved a second time. Some of the wood on the handle didn't look that nice but once I put the cushion grip and overgrip on it, the only thing noticeable was the decreased grip size. Roughly between G4-G5. It only takes 10 minutes to do the whole job including stripping and regripping the handle. If you want to try this, be cautious and take very little off at a time.
While I had the grip off my Carlton Powerblade SL and Ti, I noticed that the wood handle has the same markings, decals, and end-plug counterweight goop as a few Prince Oversize rackets. How dare they copy each other down to such detail.
