Alpha DC Pioneer Plus

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Solarris, Mar 2, 2020.

  1. Andrew Li

    Andrew Li New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    First of all, congrats on the new machine!! But yes, if the clamp bases are too stiff you can try to check the underside of the bases, there's sometimes a hex screw which you can play around with. With the base lock being that tight it sounds like the base is tightened too much.

    Also if you have questions about any specific techniques or things, feel free to ask and I can always make a video explaining :) I always have a "why" for everything I do unlike some other stringers around here who just pull and clamp mindlessly.
     
    Solarris and s_mair like this.
  2. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Wow, thank you so much! I really appreciate all the help, and by the time I am a veteran stringer, I would love to give back to the community. Give me some years lol. There are very little HD+ full tutorials on badminton stringing... hopefully we can change that soon.
    How I understand stringing is that you clamp 1 behind what you will tension. So clamp, string another "row" and tension that?

    Also, how would I follow patterns of rackets that Yonex put out? Some rackets have different patterns when I checked on Yonex's website.
     
  3. Andrew Li

    Andrew Li New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Yeah! For example, let's say you're doing the crosses. You would tension a string, let's say string #3, and then clamp it near the end. You weave the next line (string #4) and then you tension it, and clamp that string near the end. If you are tensioning a string, the clamp should be clamped to the string that was just tensioned.

    Usually, over time you will get a sense of what the pattern should be for the racket you're stringing. I don't personally use the Yonex pattern right now, but I did for a while. There are three main patterns that Yonex shows on their site. Two out of the three patterns deal with rackets with what some people call the "new grommet pattern" (I attached a diagram to show the difference, just if there is single cross grommets for the top of the racket head, usually with the mains covering them).

    For these rackets you would string the mains as normal, and for the last three main strings, you would tension the third string, which should be going towards the neck of the racket, then tension the LAST string, going up towards the head, then back down for the "second" string. If this doesn't make sense you can see any yonex stringing pattern and the mains are all the same.

    The difference between the two patterns for the "new grommet pattern" is just the tie off point. By visual inspection and looking at the size and direction of the grommet you can usually tell where the last cross string should be. Have a look at some of your own rackets and you'll see the last cross string is usually through the last grommet that goes horizontally, or the last shared grommet.

    The last stringing pattern is for rackets with the "conventional" grommet pattern, which results in the last main strings coming in at an angle. The stringing pattern for those types of rackets are usually all the same, with the tie off for the cross following the same concept, visual inspection and you can see where it should end.

    Sometimes you'll get a client with a less known racket, or a racket w/o a pattern online so it's good to know these points IMO :)
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Hey, the load spreader and strings came today, which means I will officially start my first racket stringing tomorrow! The good thing is - I have a lot of free time now that school is closed... but the bad thing is that I can't play badminton. Anyways, I was watching this video:
    ,
    and at that specific time (5:23), he changes his flying clamps.

    So my question is:
    1. Why did he clamp the string from the left side to the right side? Do you put the clamps where you inserted the string?
    2. Also, would it be better to clamp as close as possible to the frame?

    Thank you so much!!!
     
    s_mair likes this.
  5. Andrew Li

    Andrew Li New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    Excited for you! :)
    Not too sure if I can explain it perfectly but to try to answer your question;
    1. After he pulled tension in that cross string, you'd want to clamp it so the tension is maintained in the string when he retracts the puller
    - If he didn't clamp it and left the clamp where it was, then retracted the puller, the string he just tension-ed would go slack
    2. Clamping close to the frame is better (imo, I know stringers who have preferences, but I always clamp close to the frame leaving maybe ~3-5mm between the clamp and the frame)

    And an extra thing to keep in mind before your stringing tomorrow; make sure the racket head is securely in place and take your time, my first job took 2 hours lol; now im consistently sub-30

    Let us know how it turns out!
     
  6. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Hey, I mounted the racket today but I am stringing tomorrow. Here are images of the mounting for you to confirm.
    Some pictures have letters under them, and those are my questions.

    I realized that all the videos I've seen were done on electronic machines... I have no idea how drop-weights work. Hence, questions B and C. Most of the questions are yes or no (Is the mounting okay?, etc)



    A - What are all those spare parts?
    B - Do you wrap the string around the groove in the wheel part?
    D - Insert string into that gripper after wrapping the string around the groove? (I forgot C)
    E - Removed the yellow plastic because the load spreader fits better without it...
    F - Angle supports okay? I used the smaller side (larger side of the angled support pushes the racket up), but IDK if the position is okay.
    G - Load spreaders and angled supports look okay?
    H - Load spreader okay?
    I -Does the mount look ok? The end/towers are different distances from each other - is that okay?
    J - 12 o clock load spreader, look okay? I am not sure if it is in the middle though, and I looked for the "star" or a "symbol" to show the middle - there are none.

    For your response to #1, I have no idea what it meant, sorry. I am not sure but I think you read the question wrong. What I am asking is at first, he clamped on the left side of the racket. But after weaving/tensioning the string, he moved the clamp to the right side. He inserted the string at the right side, so would you clamp where you inserted the string?

    Also, sub 30 minutes!!! Wow. Hoping that'll be me in less than a year or so...
    Excited for tomorrow!
     
  7. Andrew Li

    Andrew Li New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    For your previous question, I probably misunderstood it haha. But yes, you would clamp the string on the side where you inserted the following line of string. In the video, he is using a flying clamp which clamps one line of string, to another line of string, which maintains the tension between it. Your machine has the fixed clamps which will only clamp one string, but can be locked at the base. So in your case if you're using the fixed clamps on your machine, after tensioning a string, you would clamp it close to the frame on the side which the string is coming out of. (The side at which the machine/drop weight is pulling, if you need more clarity don't hesitate to ask and I'll see if I can post a really quick video!)

    I don't have much experience with drop weight machines so I can't comment for sure on what those extra parts are, maybe see if there's a manual and make sure nothings is loose on the machine haha

    To my knowledge there a few different "types" of drop weights and it seems like yours has the gripper or some people call clutch. This is a video I just found that shows how the string is loaded.



    The string goes straight into the gripper going through the groove of the wheel, so when the weight is tensioning, the string is in the groove.

    Smaller side is good, larger is usually for squash or tennis rackets (recently started stringing those too :p)

    For the position of the side supports, I usually have mine supporting the racket at about the area just inside of the shared grommets(slightly below the shared grommet on the top side, and slightly above the shared grommet on the bottom), thats where I was taught to support the racket at, but having said that, I don't know if your side support position is better/worse/the same as mine

    Load spreader looks good, if anything just SLIGHTLY off center at the head of the racket, looks like as if one the middle grommets could get blocked.

    The towers different distances, especially at the small difference yours is at right now is not an issue, if anything, its more a visual thing but won't affect the stringing job!

    From picture I, something I noticed is that the racket looks slightly elongated, it could be from the photo or angle of the picture, but make sure the main supports aren't too tight. If you take a photo of the racket before you mount it, and after mounting, it should look the same. (The supports shouldn't be putting enough pressure to change the shape of the racket head)

    Beautiful machine also wow
     
  8. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    4,254
    Likes Received:
    2,574
    Location:
    Germany
    Can’t see the pictures from imgur, sorry. But in general, I would highly recommend that you read carefully through all the posts in here and once more while you have the machine in front of you. Cause most of those latest questions have been answered at some point or in a linked clip or thread.

    For example, If you look carefully, you will find that drop weight clip a couple of posts above already (and no, you do not wrap the string around that big round thingie...).

    The correct clamping can be beautifully seen in the tutorial by Alan Kakinami. It doesn’t matter if you are using an electric or manual tensioner when it comes to pretty much everything that deals with clamps, racket or the thrashing of the string.

    And now it’s time to simply get going and check the videos in case you encounter an issue. Don’t flood your brain with too much input before you’ve even started. Get the basics right (racket mounting and tensioning process), take your time and don’t expect any miracles.

    And most important: Have fun!
     
  9. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Hey guys started stringing my mains tonight, finishing with cross tomorrow... depending on how fast I get a reply ;).
    On the Yonex website, it says “A7 A9 A11”. Does that mean I go from A6 to B6 to A8 to B8? If I do that, there is a larger gap between A6-A8 than A5-A6.

    Also, sometimes the tensioning bar goes below 3 o clock - from what I read, you lift the bar up and lower it again?

    Also also, from a thread I read, it says do not push on tensioning bar. Mine does not fall down on it’s own... usually lands at 12:30 o clock and then I lightly push it to 3 o clock. Is that okay?
     
  10. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
  11. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    4,254
    Likes Received:
    2,574
    Location:
    Germany
    Mate, what is there to misunderstand in the sentence "do not push the bar down!"? So no, that is in no way okay. Just think about what's happening - you are applying way more tension on the string/racket than what is set on the machine with positioning the weight.

    If the bar comes to balance way above 3 o'clock, then completely release it again, and give the string a bit more slack before you insert it in the gripper. That way, the bar will go down lower. You will get used to where to actually grip the string over time.
    If the bar goes below 3 o'clock, then yes, you hold the gripper, raise the bar and release it again. Just as seen in the video that has been shared twice now (around 0:10 and 1:00 in the clip).

    And again, I can't see the pics from imgur. Please post them as attachements to your posts.

    That's a thing you should avoid too. The stress on the frame is at a maximum at the point when all the mains are in but the crosses are still missing. So you should not leave the frame in this position any longer than necessary. If anyhow possible, try to finish a string job from beginning till the end in one go. The higher the tension, the faster you should do it to reduce the stress for the racket.

    Which racket are we talking about here?
     
  12. LoaS

    LoaS Regular Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2017
    Messages:
    46
    Likes Received:
    21
    Location:
    UK
    Cut the string ASAP you're using the wrong pattern and ruining your racket.

    For yonex rackets there are 3 main string patterns depending on the number of holes and the position of shared grommets:
    • 72 holes: no need to skip any grommets at the top (other rackets on the yonex website) ==> your racket
    • 76 holes: shared grommets at the top A13 and A15 (AX9, AX7 ... on the yonex website)
    • 76 holes: shared grommets at the top A14 and A16 (AX88D, AX88S, ... on the yonex website)
    See http://yonex.co.uk/products/badminton-stringing-instructions/ for reference.

    There are other patterns for rackets with different number of holes (some victor or carlton rackets for example) but you should not attempt these until you understand the basic process.

    Maybe you should try prestringing your racket without pulling tension first to understand where the strings are supposed to go and what the string bed looks like.
     
  13. endFX

    endFX Regular Member

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2018
    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    94
    Occupation:
    Badminton tryhard
    Location:
    Germany
    This exactly.

    Look if the bar can drop very easy. The ratchet can sometimes make it go to hard and cause inconsistency in tension. If so, remove it.

    @s_mair for some reason imgur doesn't work for me in Firefox. Chrome however is fine. Maybe try opening the link in a separate browser
     
  14. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    4,254
    Likes Received:
    2,574
    Location:
    Germany
    hm.... nope.... still the same issue with Chrome. But only reading the picture description makes me shudder, so I don't know if I really want to see that or not. :confused:
     
  15. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Looks like I made a bucket load of mistakes.
    When I push it down, I literally tap it and it starts going down by itself... but from now on I won't...
    The racket I'm stringing is at 18lbs (for my mother), hopefully the racket will not get damaged... but now I will finish it from the beginning to the end.
     
  16. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Okay, I am very confused. endFX said:

    on yonex rackets there are 3 main string patterns depending on the number of holes and the position of shared grommets:
    • 72 holes: no need to skip any grommets at the top (other rackets on the yonex website) ==> your racket
    • 76 holes: shared grommets at the top A13 and A15 (AX9, AX7 ... on the yonex website)
    • 76 holes: shared grommets at the top A14 and A16 (AX88D, AX88S, ... on the yonex website)
    First of, I think my racket is the 76 hole version with the AX88D/88S)
    But on the website, it says: (88S, 88D)
    "Start from top center, keep on stringing until B9 (skip A7, A9, A11). Go to B12, to A16 and then straight to A14, down to B10 and tie off at B8."
    So you don't actually skip A7, A9, A11?
     
  17. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    4,254
    Likes Received:
    2,574
    Location:
    Germany
    Now you've lost me. So you start with the bar at 12 o'clock, then tap it and let it drop down without giving any guidance with your hand?

    If you start with the bar at 12 o'clock, then gently guide the bar down with your hand until it ends up in a free balance. You should simply avoid any quick movements of the bar, incl. it dropping down on its own. But again, imo the best way to proceed is to start with the bar being fully down on the table and then going up - just as seen in the video. Thereby you avoid any quick movements.
     
    LoaS likes this.
  18. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
  19. Solarris

    Solarris Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2019
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    New York
    Sorry s_mair I didn't know how to use the attachment function lol. I just right clicked and clicked copy image URL and put it into the image button... hopefully it works.
     
  20. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2013
    Messages:
    4,254
    Likes Received:
    2,574
    Location:
    Germany
    just count the holes. Yours is a 72 hole racket, so nothing like the 88S or 88D. So no, you do not skip any holes at the top there.
     

Share This Page