so, all the string brands that you have tried still didn't find one that is durable enough at 28-30lbs?
I used to use 0.68mm strings. Now I went to 0.70mm. I would not consider the 0.70mm string high repulsion compared to the 0.68mm.
That's the same old guff about balance point and "ruining" the playability of the racket that we've heard before . In taneepak's opinion, it seems that every shortcoming of equipment is attributable to the racket not being "on-spec", perhaps because the player has "misaligned" the balance point by adding (shock! horror!) extra grips. Similarly, it now seems that any shortcoming of the player (even a beginner) in attempting to use high string tensions is attributable to this vaunted balance point. Woe betide the player who adds a few grips to his racket; for he shall bring ruin upon his equipment, and never shall he be granted the effortless power that is bestowed upon those with perfect, on-spec equipment. And whosoever shall not abide high tensions, yea, even 30 lbs and above, I say unto you: it is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than for an off-spec racket to accommodate high tensions. Cast aside your replacement grips and your overgrips; yea, cast aside these harbingers of sin and wield your naked racket as God (Yonex) intended! (Alternatively, don't be a gullible sap and let yourself be fooled into endlessly pursuing non-existent perfection in rackets. It really doesn't make that much difference. Use the equipment you are comfortable with, and get on with your training without a second thought for the balance point of your racket.)
Gallum, may I suggest you try to re-adjust your AT800DE to the following specs. and find out for yourself. 1. Length to be 675mm. Sometimes the AT800DE comes a bit short. 2. Tension 26lbs mains, 28.5lbs crosses. 3. Balance point with strings and grip = 31.0cm (head-heavy) 4. Comply with the AT800DE's head-heavy design by not making it head-light with heaps of overgrip. I am sure and confident that with the above you should be able to handle the above tension, which you find it difficult with your current racquet.
But what if, for instance, if I'm using a stringing machine that holds the racket frame well enough so there is no need for different main and cross strings? What tension would you go with then (using this example of 26.0/28.5)? 27-27.5lbs. all around?
The 10% mains/cross difference is an approximation to allow for the more twisted path and friction from the crosses, that is assuming that one follows the standard procedure of stringing the mains first followed by the crosses. Because of more friction of the crosses, caused by the up/down/up/down etc weave path, the 10% higher tension may approximate the same 'effective' tension of the mains. For racquets with smaller frame like ovals you may need less tension difference. But even this is debatable. Assuming that you can get the same effective tension onto each main and cross string, the middle section of the string bed, in between the six middle main strings and the six middle cross strings, will always have a lower 'effective' tension, because of their longer lengths.
Thanks for the suggestion I am not, however, going to try this. I am very happy with my equipment right now, I am playing well, and I have no intention of messing around and disturbing my game. The grip is the right size for my hand, so I'm not going to remove any grip layers. I know you think this affects the balance, but I think the effect is negligible both in practice and in theory (think moment of inertia, not static balance). My equipment setup is perfect for me now. Why fiddle with it? I'd much rather continue to develop my skills. That said, in a few months time I might raise the tension again, from 25 lbs to 26 lbs.
If the manufacturer's specification is important enough to comply with, I suggest you comply with the recommended tension also, which is I think 24lb max for the AT800DE. Why arbitrarily comply with some bits of the spec and not other bits ? How do we know your choice of random compliance is in fact correct ?
Except for the head-heavy Yonex specs, the other specs are typical of what I have found the AT800DE to play well, based on some of the AT800DEs that I have tuned or modified. I have slightly different specs for my own AT800DE, and it plays better than the others.
added and in bold for clarification....It's personal! why suggest to Gollum your own preferences? Are they universal?
No, those suggested to Gollum are not of my own AT800DE specs., but quite close to Yonex's (except for the tension). Anyway it is just a suggestion. If you try it and if it doesn't play better, at least you have one more reason to take a shot at me.
Do you have any suggestions for an NS 7000 or 8000 ? presumably adding overgrips will make it more head-light and will comply with the design?
