Kakinami is no grandmaster only a scrub has been washed up wannabe stringer. Kevin Yamaguchi is the new face for USA stringing, maybe he is grandmaster level. BTW, I taught him how to string, and he will be in Brazil 2016 =) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
Never used one of your stringing jobs, but would be keen to get a fresh one regardless who will string in Rio or home alone or in NY.
We're still two-piecing (YY) all rackets here, I don't see any problems at all with this pattern (if it ain't broke...). I could probably get one more racket done per wheel by one-piecing, but I don't mind the extra 5% costs and just go with plenty of string for the jobs by 2-piecing... Part of the story, of course, is that we haven't strung any really hard jobs yet (max. 13 kg so far), and we've not strung any thin strings over 12 kg. BUT, we're now starting to string more jobs using thinner strings, incl. BG-66x and BG-AS. So I wonder, at what kind of jobs do you guys see any knot problems? Do you have any thresholds where you say, "if I go beyond this tension, or if I use this particular thin or slippery string, then I'll use another knot"? We're doing Parnell, adding a 3rd loop to the starting knot for the thinner strings and/or harder tensions. We're somewhere between 150-200 jobs done now, and have never had a knot failure.
I think that the method of your 2 piece makes the difference. If you start your crosses with a starting clamp, you could use maybe any knot. The friction will avoid bad slippage. If you do something thin with a starting knot and directly pull the tension on the first cross at full speed, you need to adjust your starting knot. Especially if you go for AS or ZM62. I made good experiences with my Jorg Knot (it's the name of my doubled Toshi). I also think that some strings are prone to rip off on certain knots and need some special care. If a knot flushs to 50% it's not a knot which I prefer. I also made the experience that my Pro-Knot is not as good as my Parnell and Toshi for the mains. Actually I'm very happy with the tension retension of my Parnells for mains and last cross and my Jorg Knot for the start. The Jorg also looks pretty neat, so it is my preferred starting knot. If somebody wants a Video of the Jorg, please PM me. I don't want to share this knot widely. Just for a selection of nice genetlemens...
For most of the jobs, we just start crosses by double-pulling directly from the knot... And that's why I'm a bit afraid of doing the thinner strings at higher tensions!
It looks as though it'd be easier to get hold of an actual monkey's fist... I'd be at that monstrosity for hours!
Nah. The YY flying clamp and the card are just for the piece of scrap string. Normally I weave a cross first and then I do the starting knot. It can be done much faster, but I needed some time to show everything properly without covering everything with my hands. Difficult was to unmount the Wise, put the DW-unit on my machine to glue my Xperia Z2 with Nitto Tape to the lever. Have you ever used a touchscreen covered with Nitto-tape? That's difficult.
Finally... the secret is revealed. But to be honest, I didn't get it also just by watching it. I guess I will have to dig out my test racket and a piece of scrap string and start practising. The result looks brilliant.
Thanks! Since last time, I've learned that regular Parnells doesn't cut the mustard when you're playing around with Aerosonic... Cross tie-off startede to creep. "Fortunately" BGAS don't live long enough to see the knot go all the way through
IMO AS allows nothing sloppy like tie-offs/starting knots at uneven B's(b's) or A's. It's a shame that some racket have really poor designs. No big grommets at B6/b6 or A5? Oh boy... I suggest to one piece (Haribito Basic) requests with AS. Less hassle/loss with the knots and triple parnell should do the trick. AS coating is not fragile to get easily off, if you are gentle and just pull the first loop really tight and reduce the force for the second to semi tight and the third to a minimum.
