A Good Knot

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by heroclass, Apr 12, 2015.

  1. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Indeed. The knot is more likely to pull the rest of the racket through that grommet.

    We cut some absolutely atrocious string jobs this week, including one JS-10 that looked like it'd be done at 21/35. We don't know how many were done in Germany and how many they brought from home, but whoever they were, they were cowboys.
     
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  2. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    How does that even happen?

    Like, I'm pretty new to stringing. I only started recently. I've had some misweaves and my knots aren't great yet. But how does someone end up with an imbalance like that? I absolutely cannot understand. That's an absolute lack of care.
     
  3. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I had to change my starting knot mid-week because my old one was sinking at the tensions we were seeing. Other people might have thought "sod it - that'll do", but I ain't one of em, because the players do notice. For example, Shin Baek Cheol specifically asked us to keep an eye on his grommets throughout the week, so we did.
     
  4. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    I think anyone on the planet would notice a 21/35 stringjob...
     
  5. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    That knot looks like the monkey fist/paw! I've not dared attempt it yet but ill see if I can post a diagram.
     
  6. Charlie-SWUK

    Charlie-SWUK Regular Member

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    So I'm using the toshi knot but I'm trying to figure out a good way of tensioning it. I don't like yanking with pliers because I feel like I'm going to strip the string. I tried using the tension mechanism but that's risky too. Any ideas?
     
  7. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    A starting clamp is the best tool for tying knots. Even the super-cheap Pro's Pro clamp works well for knots. With pliers there is a huge risk of stripping the string. A starting clamp starts slipping before you pull too hard.
     
  8. X_Z_XIA

    X_Z_XIA Regular Member

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    I want to thank Mark A for showing us how to do his triple Parnell starting knot. I strung a racket for my friend who had the string snap at the starting knot because his Oliver racket had a really wide grommet and I figured out that the reason it snapped was because the knot I was using previously was sinking so far into the grommet that it would snap. I even tried to substitute the starting knot for a Toshi knot but even that would sink really deep into the grommet. It was only with Mark A's Triple Parnell that it would finally stay out of the grommet.
    I am so relieved to finally have a starting knot that can withstand high tensions and slutty holes haha
    Very big thanks Mark A!
     
  9. X_Z_XIA

    X_Z_XIA Regular Member

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  10. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    One hint: Some rackets don't have the option to place the starting knot at B6. B7 is IMO a worse option, because the main string sits just on one side of the grommet and don't block the hole due diagonally running thru the grommet. I highly recommend to one-piece them or change the position for the main tie-offs like Grandmaster @kakinami do. Especially some Oliver, Dunlop, Forza, Babolat and Adidas are known for their retarted grommet layout, which don't work well for the standard YY 2-piece.

    I doubled a toshi with an additional loop for tightening as starting knot for thinner strings. Looks like a beautiful piece of wool.
     
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  11. X_Z_XIA

    X_Z_XIA Regular Member

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    Yes, the Oliver racket I was stringing forced me to place the starting knot at B7 and that is right next to the main tie-off.
    I will look into changing the position of the main tie-offs. Can you direct me to where @kakinami positions his main tie-offs?
    Thanks for the great advice ucantseeme!

    Wouldn't adding an additional loop just make it taller instead of fatter/wider? I remember reading on a discussion about some knots that just add size vertically instead of horizontally.
     
  12. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    AFAIK he, did his tie-offs at B9 and his starting knot at B8.

    My doubled Toshi: IMO it is more bulky.

    DSC_0007.jpg
     
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  13. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Ooh... I like the look of that double Toshi. Might make a good starter:).
     
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  14. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    Hmm... how exactly did you double it? Did you add an extra loop around the anchor string in the beginning or an extra loop when going through the "main loops" in the end? Or both? :eek:

    I have tried adding a third loop in the beginning but as far as I remember it looked different than the knot seen in your picture. Sadly it didn't work as for tying off since it gets pretty hard to pull the slack string through it.
     
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  15. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    From the picture, it looks like both.
     
  16. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    You must get me drunk to disclose this secret.;) Just kidding, if I have time and don't need to onepiece awful Forzas, I will post a step-by-step manual.

    But actually these Forzas are killing me. If you thought the MX pattern is crap, don't get your hands on a Forza with 88 holes @Mark A
     
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  17. dbswansea

    dbswansea Regular Member

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    96'ers are worse
     
  18. s_mair

    s_mair Regular Member

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    I feel so blessed that up to now none of my clients is playing one of those monsters. What a nonsense.
     
  19. ucantseeme

    ucantseeme Regular Member

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    Good that they are actually hard to find and the partly sponsored players, that come to me don't use them. I owned a 550VS several years ago and sold it with a smile. I also know a club mate who used it, but luckily he use his VTZFII maily and just go for 22lbs. Nowadays, if I must string them on regular base, I would charge more...25% more.
     
  20. dbswansea

    dbswansea Regular Member

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    one of my customers has 2
     

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