looks a bit blue on my monitor too. did you use the camera's white balance preset or did you adjust the WB in your photo editing software?
Agreed. I used wb preset only, didn't do any pp. Will try using in badminton photography later. it seems more convenient to use than gray card.
i've been using gray card with pretty good results, it is especially useful for indoor shots with tungsten lighting, most camera's Auto WB do horribly with such conditions.
^^While looking at Brandon's top pic at the same time..^^ ..i couldn't help & imagine what Brandon must be thinking after that question..He must've said to himself w/somewhat of a bewildered look, "Say what?!?! I thought all the posts in this thread answered your question. Did you read all the posts??"..hehe
that's exactly what red and i have been talking about in this thread. the color of the typical light bulb changes as it flickers 100 (or 120) times a second. if the shutter catches it in the wrong time, there will be a color cast. look at red's example.
Just wanna have a more indepth discussion here. Do you guys know why those color cast was sometimes in the upper part and sometimes in the lower part of a frame? Old school phorographers may know the answer!
Depends on where the shutter slit is as it travels from the bottom to the top when the light flickers, no?
very smart indeed! in addition, what's the advantage of a vertically travel curtain? (not related to the light flickers this time.)
back to topic. here i found a photo that illustrate the situation pretty well. this was taken at 1/200s shutter speed. all the overhead lights appears to be the same color and white to the human eye. but at that shutter speed, a whole bank of them have a pinkish hue to them as they are going through the particular phase of the electricity cycle. and further, it illustrate that lights don't blend very well as they are physically far apart. the rear of the courts are significantly pinker than the other parts.
here is another picture taken at a different time, you can see that the lights are now white, as it would appear to the human eye.
I bought one yesterday. Did a few quick photos. It really did work well in my room. But since it was late, I haven't got anything to post up at the moment.
I bought this little grey card for my interior pics, It works and it's a very very very usefull tool if you use raw processing. http://www.rawworkflow.com/products/whibal/purchase.html evry raw sofware got a WB tool where you have to select a grey point. point the grey card you took on a picture, and check for the color temperature in the gymnasium. after, batch process the color temperature on all your pics, ans you'll have the same good color on evry pictures of your serie. if the light is different between several courts, just tke the card on evry court for more accuracy. look for this serie for exemple: http://lgarnier.ovh.org/serie.php?id_album=18&stat=ok
Is this mini grey card too small if not intend to do many pp? Other than wb adjustment, what other pp you've done? thanks.
if you talk about the whole serie in the link.... definitly I did nothing else than WB adjustments. But my raw processing soft (DXO optics) makes some smart adjusments on every raw. I also added some sharpen (too much), I think i'm gonna redo it
