Yeah, I did mention this as well in another(?) thread asking for advice on drop weight machines that after calibrating a drop weight machine, when stringing it is best for consistent tension to have the gripper as close as possible to the position when calibration was done. This is especially true for drop weight machines which employ this type of gripping mechanism, like the superstringer. The size/weight of the gripper will also affect how much difference there will be. In your pictures, I think the gripper you have seems to be of the smaller/lighter variant, so the effect will be less compared to the bigger/heavier versions. IMHO, in my own case, the deviation can become too big to ignore, especially if the ending position of the gripper varies too much throughout the whole stringing process.
@Frosty @arundeep: eventually the fact begins to be considered... The Earth is not flat, the dropweight machines are not accurate (without modification). See also the modification with counterweights: https://www.badmintoncentral.com/fo...tringing-machines.110074/page-10#post-2398351 (I've done something quite similar, and the difference with the gripper position has been reduced to 0.05 kg...).
Yes, this thread I know, as that was the reason I did calculations in 2018?. Btw, sheet I used for calculation is available . Unfortunately, it is not google sheets friendly. I hope one can find the formula in it, which is based on the feedback I got from physics guys and seems to have been confirmed by practical observations as well. @Frosty you can download the sheet and change the paramters based on your machine to calculate the variation. Btw, off topic, but as you mentioned "strange beleives" above, I recently came across something new, I never heard before. "Birds aren't real !!!" . just in case someone is curious.
thanks for this measurements. I don't have a precise/consistent weighing device to convert theory to observation.
I looked after old photos I took before my gripper modification. As I wrote before on a ~10.5 kg tension, I measured a variation of + / - 0.5 kg between the extreme positions of the gripper; this is coherent with your simulation.
My most common used tools in my arsenal. I use toy model cutters, 30° mini bent nose pliers, awl as a string mover, grommet grinder and grommet remover, Yonex starting clamp for when I use reels I am always short on my tails to get as much string as I can out of my reels, a floating clamp to help me use finishing knots on my crosses instead of a starting knot and a finishing knot, and ¥100 crab scissors that are bent to help cut string easier. The toy model cutters are great to cut flared damaged grommets flush to the frame to remove easier, but need to be careful not to cut new grommets to close to the frame. These are my home tools, my work tools are a little more heavy duty, not really necessary for what I do, overkill. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
At about 10:46 is where I use the flying clamp to help me use a finishing knot instead of a starting knot for my crosses.
Great admirer of your stringing prowess. I'm still learning to string, please excuse my silly questions. Why did you only do the finishing knot after tensioning 3 or 4 crosses ahead with the use a flying clamp? Any advantages? Can it be done with only the fixed clamps if one don't have a flying clamp?
If I were to try with no flying clamp I might clamp cross #10, my tail of cross #9 is on my left, with my right clamp towards as much left as you can with the right clamp, them pull cross #9, I add 10% to my knot string and then knot. Then I would pull cross #10 as usual and then finish. Since you have tensioned cross #9 when you pull cross #10 there will not be much pulling on cross#9 because it is pretty much tensioned. Sometimes for me at higher tensions my knot on my cross breaks the main, that is why I feel much more comfortable stringing like this. Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
My shop tools: 3.peaks SN-130 precision nippers ¥5500 Fujiya MP9AT-110 mini bent nose pliers ¥1700 Yonex cutters Yonex flying clamp Yonex awl as a string mover Grommet grinder from China (red handle)¥400 Grommet remover from China (gold handle) ¥400 RAB 3mm grommer grinder Yonex starting clamp as an extender when I pull short For tennis I add: Babolat starting clamp Parallel pliers My nippers can cut piano wire Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
I tension 3 crosses and then tie off to get rid of my flying clamp so it doesn't obstruct me or I accidentally hit it and it comes off. I feel no extra tension from pulling my crosses will pull on my knot making it sink or accidentally breaking the main. Hope that makes sense.
See my PM or jnsjnsn post (https://www.badmintoncentral.com/fo...tringing-machines.110074/page-10#post-2398351)
I don't own one. But depending on your stringing pattern, you might need one. I mostly only string Yonex 2 piece with a starting knot, never missed one.
I am planning on doing the yonex 2 piece aswell for my rackets but I will also be doing some older rackets for other people, would I need one for those?
With lower tensions you can probably use a flying clamp with a bit of cloth or something to protect the racket. Some people on the forum here use it like that.
Those older rackets that I will do probably won’t go past 20-22 lbs of tension so I should be good with that