I agree that it will be lower. but how much? And if for example, if we say, 20% lower. So how do one setup the clamp? Do you pull 35lbs, across the frame, or pull 28lbs, directly? I say they are equivalent (given 20% assumption). So if we do indeed pull 28lbs directly, in order to hold 35lbs tension, why is setting up the clamp via direct pulling it "bad", as Tennisman says?
Is it safe to pull 3 mains on one side at 35lb? I would have thought you'd risk warping the head with the uneven load. Not being facetious, genuine question of how many mains you co do without balancing the other side. I always alternate so o lying ever one ahead for as long as it take to clamp, swivel, pull. Nice tip about the starting clamp. I think I'll be adding that technique to my first few main pulls. Sent from my SM-A315G using Tapatalk
I really don't have a very good explanation, but from when I tried to determine the best clamp pressure one thing that was obvious to me that holding the direct pulling of the tensioner needs way much tighter clamp power than just holding the already tensioned string. Clamp power I had to use was way too hard and clearly was damaging the string. It is the same with knots - you need much stronger knots for starting the crosses then the ones used for finishing...
Thanks! I don't think it is that bad to have three mains more on one side - I have seen yonex instructions where they do four and four. But what I do is way much better . I put the starting clamp one main to the right of the handle and then pull three mains towards the left. That way you don't have any uneven load at all, it is always one string ahead at any moment....
No, sorry, stupid brain . Let me try again. I use the starting clamp to the right of the handle. I double pull then the first two mains and then clamp both. the first one is not properly tensioned at the moment and the second one is good since it is constant pull machine. Then I do two more mains - that makes three mains on the left and one on the right (two more on one side). Then I do 3 on the right (also re-pulling the first right main to get it properly tensioned). After that I alternate two and two until the end. So - it is two ahead in the beginning but never three...
That's one of the reason, I'm still really happy with my flying clamps, because they are much softer for the string and no need to adjust them ... Tension accuracy is a thing and we had proof that there is loss of tension when using flying VS fixed clamps, but flying clamps have other qualities, they're soft and stringer-friendly, and the final result using only Flying Clamps is consistent if done well, even if it's lowered in tension compared to a fixed clamps stringjob.
And again. Just wondering if it's coincidence. I've just had 3 slippages with exbolt tonight. Previous to that I've got 2 sets of gt5 that slipped, one from pre-lockdown, so not something I experience much. Sent from my SM-A315G using Tapatalk
absolutely agree that the tension on the clamp or knot will be less (but clamp vs. knots are less are not due to exactly same reasons). However, the issue here is not whether it is less, it is whether directly pulling at all is a good idea, given Tennisman calling it a dumb idea. Directly pulling is holding the true tension of the string. if we are direct pulling 20lbs on the clamp, there isn't anything in between the strain gauge on the tensioner and the clamp to lose any force. there will be 20lbs of force on the clamp. period. If you are then going to string say, 25lbs tension, yes, there will be tension loss along the way (analysis will be for another discussion, but at least we do agree there is some), but the clamp better hold at least 20lbs directly pulling equivalent. In that case, why is directly pulling "dumb idea"? Furthermore, if your tension is to be say, 25lbs, there will be tension loss, but you should still be setting the directly clamping to more than after the tension loss, there will always be some variation in force so the tension holding need to have at least a little extra. else you will be risking to slip and result in damaged string coating which means a ruined set of strings.
Hi All. Quick update, so using the first video pulling the middle 2 mains and then clamping the starting string, and also supporting it with a flying clamp has done the trick... i THINK. i have not dared to try the exbolt63. but i actually did a customers string (ex polish international player), and he uses Li Ning No.1 at 29.5 lbs, so i WAS a little worried! i also obviously use the pre-stretch function so on the crosses the tension goes up to about 37lbs, but yeah everything held fine. pretty nerve wracking because obviously any twists or crimps in the string will just snap straight away at that tension. But yeah this starting method helped a lot thanks. i wasnt aware of this method when i started, and consider myself quite an experienced stringer, but i have neglected to keep myself up to date so this has been a valuable lesson. thanks all. R
Unfortunately, I had similar experience as OP and Duckfeet. Exbolt-63 is super slippery, requires perfect clamping pressure and superior grip from only the highest quality clamps. It's not for the average stringer or average equipment. I couldn't work with it and regret ever buying a spool. This string will slip, meaning damage, or break from excess pressure for complete failure. I've never had as much of an issue in my years stringing. FYI, I did clean clamps with alcohol prior to attempting at 27x29lbs, which I think is pushing this string towards it's higher limits. Good luck
ive had no breakages stringing at all for a while now with li-ning no.1 with the 'proper' starting method pulling tension on 2 mains strings to ensure there is even tension when starting. however the polish player has reported that the li-ning no.1 has been snapping more regularly than he would expect so im wondering if i am still damaging the string. would like to try the exbolt again soon though.
