Hi there, I am a new stringer. Recently I have tried to string a vtzf2 at 25x27 using a drop weight machine (2 pt mounts). The mains took me about 30-40 minutes, while the crosses took me 50 minutes. When I took the racket out, it seemed rounder than it was supposed to be (I measured and it was wrong). I then cut the strings, to prevent more warping. Does stringing the crosses too slow have any actual effect on the racket warping?
a few things. did you measure the roundness? usually the difference in a few mm and human eyes are very bad at measuring such a small difference. to answer your question: maybe, since it has been 40 mins after the mains are tension, there might be slight stretching happening already. but we are also talking about a couple of mm at most. none of which should be too visible.
Yes I did measure the roundness. The vertical length of the racket head (from bottom of the top part of the racket head frame, to the top part of the bottom of the racket head frame) was 23.3 centimeters. It seemer rounder than a normal zf2.
Without string, the measurement was 23.5 cm. I am pretty sure I mounted the racket properly (there were no supports because I'm too poor for a 6-point mounting system). I believe it also might be that my crosses are not tight enough.
What is the overall length of the racket now strung? If it is 677 mm (a guess...), then leave it and first of all play with it to get a feel for how your string job feels on the racket. +/- 2 mm difference unstrung/strung is fully acceptable imo and won't put the racket in immediate danger. I find it a lot easier to measure the full racket lenght instead of just the head only. With those two results with the same tensions used, I would highly advice to take a closer look at the mounting of the frame on the machine. Especially make sure that you tighten the supports constistently.
IMO OP should speed up the mains. You string with flying clamps, right? Anything above 20 minutes is too much for just the mains, even as a beginner. I think that a racket should be as short as possible in a huge uneven force state. Peak is, when mains are in the end. I recommend for your rackets sake to string at lower tension, to lower the uneven force a bit. The VTZFII is a damn solid racket in terms of shape and if it comes out awkward it is a combination of cheap clamps, slipping clamps, the supports, the long time, the wrong ratio for your machine and the technique for the crosses and maybe mounting is slipping under the force.
Yes I string with flying clamps. The mains took me 20-ish minutes (yesterday, I forgot to also post the times), while the crosses took me about 50 minutes (also because I had to take a 5-minute break for other stuff), and I'm slow and cautious when threading the crosses. I ended up cutting the strings again (better safe than sorry!). And yes, you are right. I do need to speed up literally everything.
One thing II would change in your situation is the +2 on crosses. That is not a rule and just a universal guidance from the manufacturers, some kind of "acceptable in between". Since you are using crazy 2 point machine you have to resort to some crazy things in order to get the proper result. I would not just measure the length of the racket before the start but also make a whole outline of the racket. This way you can check if the head ends up with the correct shape and which parts of the frame need to be corrected. Than I would add to the crosses as much as needed to get it right. Since most of the time rackets tend to have squeezed upper part of the frame and also this area is the weakest I would start by making + 3 lbs in the bottom half crosses and than +2 on the upper. If that is not enough I would even try +4 bottom third, + 3 middle area and +2 upper part. The outline draw of your racket will tell you where to add the most, just make sure to ease on the upper third. You might even end up with the +0 on the upper crosses - may be +4 bottom third, +2 middle +0 upper third, etc... Again - check the outline before and after and do whatever needed in order to avoid squeezing the upper area... Good luck
2 point machine, 27lbs, flying clamps, long stringing time... That's pretty hard for a badminton racket. I would reduce the stringing tension to practice. Is the racket properly mounted? If you pull the first two strings, is the lower support loose?
I use a two points machine too. for that high tension, i usually stretch a little (elongate) the racket. My machine is a prince, i can clamp on one end and then pull the other end so the racket is a bit stretch. You should cut it. because if it's customer racket when it breaks you can beheld responsible. If the shape of the racket stays the shape when it breaks there's not much only that's bad luck. is your machine a solid machine? the post (6 and 12 oclock) need to be very strong if it bends or move while doing the main, it's not a good machine, you need to sell it.
Wouldn't it be more tension on the upper crosses since the upper crosses is smaller? I might have to experiment around with fake rackets, but I'm pretty sure the racket head shape is isometric.
I use the Gamma progression 200 to string my rackets.So I would mount one side of the racket, and then elongate it vertically a bit while stringing?
Yes, upper crosses are already under more stress due to shorter (and so harder) strings, it's also weakest area and most vulnerable to breaking...
Not while stringing. When mounting the racket let say clamp both support. You model needs to lock the post too right. Lock one post, pull a little bit the other post away. Just a little it almost not noticeable. Like making sure the support is held really thigh to the frame of the racket. 25*27lbs on a real zf2 even on two points machine you should come out all right.
