I find it useful. You can't pull knots tight with normal pliers because they don't grip so well, and I stopped pulling knots tight with my hands after getting some cuts on my fingers.
Stringing the crosses, starting with a starting knot (not tie-off knot), from the top will, I believe, provide a better sweetspot, improved playability, and greater repulsion. The ideal sweetspot is more on the top half of the frame rather than the lower part. This requires that the top first cross string, which is not supported by the main strings north of the first cross string, be really free from tension loss that tie-off knots seem to suffer more. A starting knot at the top will give you a tighter first cross string than a tie-off knot, the latter being the case if you start your crosses from the bottom or from the middle.
Hi Taneepak, This is the first time I heard of strating knot (not tide off knot) used. Can you provide more information on how to tide the starting knot and do you un-tide it. I am very interested in this method. Please provide more info if anyone else use it before. Thanks and have a nice weekend.
Let me try if I can explain it here. Using a Yonex AT700 as an example, the starting knot would be at the top grommet 6 using the already strung main string as an anchor. You simply loop three times around the top main string at grommet 6, bring the string leader back to go underneath the three loops, then over (not under) the last (sort of) loop. You then pull the leader string with one hand and pull the other end with your other hand. Having prepared the starting knot, you now take the other end of the long cross string and weave it across the two top grommets 7. You then use the crank/tensioner to tension the first cross string. Ths starting knot will then tighten and even slip into the grommet hole. Hope it is not too confusing.
Thanks for the instruction, I thought it is not good to have the knot slide into the grommet? How do you un-tide it to do a tide off if it slide into the grommet? I will give it a try on my next racquet.
You should leave about 2" at the front end of the starting knot string. The best starting knot would see half the knot slipping into the grommet. At very high tension and/or with larger grommet, the starting knot may slip completely into the grommet, a state in which the starting knot is fully tensioned with zero potential to lose tension. In such a situation, you simply use the spare 2" leader starting knot string to tie another knot and use a plier to tighten it. This serves as a brake but will have no effect in any tensioning of the starting knot. Alternatively, at very high tension, you can have more than 3 loops for the starting knot. Once you have tightened the starting knot, there is no way you can untide it. It is almost as good as being "cemented"-which is precisely what you want. Any knot that you can easily untide will just as easily lose tension.
Thanks Pete! This is much clear. I did not realize I have been using double half hitch starting knot all these time. Have a nice weekend there!
Excuse my ignorance. I sort of got lost with your points. What is the baddie string?? Do you mind giving me a picture to show??? Thanks
Hi all, here is my issue with stringing the final cross string: The load spreader obtrudes when mounted and as such I am unable to pull the last cross string to desired tension. I hope the pictures below demonstrates this. Blue string will not go from grommet to grommet in a direct line, instead it is bent around the mount point. Machine is a Penta Premium 3600...so hope fellow users will be able help me overcome this! IMG_20180811_163215 by ljkmann posted Aug 11, 2018 at 4:56 PM IMG_20180811_163222 by ljkmann posted Aug 11, 2018 at 4:56 PM
Hi, You have 2 options. 1 the white plastic piece on the post should be removeable. Take it out. You already have a load spreader. 2 if he white piece is glued on, you can take a file and file off about 2mm. That will do the trick. Good luck.
So I've taken a closer look, and the white piece appears to be super glued on. Would you recommend forcefully removing this?
It is there for tennis. If you use load spreader, ok to take it off. If you string tennis or squash racquet, just shave off 2mm and you will b wok.
Weird that it would be glued on, on my PS 3600 it wasn't, which makes more sense since there's a different piece to be used for tennis rackets (that looks like a small load spreader) Try using a small flat screw driver, driving it between the plastic and the metal post and using it as a lever, it should come right out. If it really is glued, then i guess you'll have to file it off.
Have your removed the white piece from both side or just the one side? Cheers This I'm aware of... Larger sweet spot
I removed it from just one side, as it doesn't prevent you from stringing the bottom cross, even if you use a load spreader.
