Hello everyone! I had a thread about getting this machine, and it looks like I have gotten it! Waiting for the shipping. In the meantime, I still need help with stringing. Some questions: 1. When do you attach the fixed clamp on the string? Right before you want to tension/pull your string? I don't want to just copy in some person's video - I am the type to learn something better when I know why you do it. 2. What essential tools do you need for stringing - I am sure the DC comes with an awl, needle-nose pliers, diagonal cutters. Anything else? 3. Finally, any FULL length good videos that's set at a good angle and not those 10 minutes speedy stringers? lol. Thanks, and I'll be sure to update on the DC.
Very good approach! We assume that you are weaving and tensioning each string one after the other and not do pre-stringing. Lets start with the main strings (crosses are done a bit differently) - then basically there are two workflows that seem to be most common: 1) pull the string to tension -> clamp it -> thread the next string -> release tension 2) pull the sting to tenstion -> thread the next string -> clamp it -> release tension Personally, I did 1) for quite a while before I switched to 2) maybe a year ago. Both workflows are working fine and both make sure that the tension is applied for a certain time on the string to cause some initial stretching and thereby reduce the tension loss later on. With 2), the effect is bigger since you give the tensioned string more time to "relax" befor you actually clamp it, but imo the difference in the final result will be slim to none. I started to prefer 2) because it is a tiny bit quicker since you can thread the next string while the tension head is still pulling. But of course, that only works on electronic tension heads. I'm sure you will figure out a workflow that is most convenient and smooth for you once you've finished your first 20-30 jobs or so. The cross strings should be treated with the "one string ahead" approach. See video: That makes the weaving a lot easier. Apart from the mentioned basics, I would recommend to get one or even two Yonex flying clamps since they come in handy in so many ways. You might need them for rackets with a high top cross string when there is not enough space to apply the fixed clamp, as a starting clamp, to pull knots, as an extension for the final pulls when you've cut the string too short (it happens, believe me!) and of course, if you want to experiment with various patterns. Also, a string mover might be of some use (something like this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32845590093.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.5.45b24f59B3T6r9). But that's it basically. Optional would also be a real starting clamp since it's a bit more convenient then the flying clamp in some cases (pulling knots, string extension) To me, there is one video that I can recommend 100%: It covers a lot of things with good explanations (from basics to more advanced stuff), shows superb techique and is just plain great. I have put together a playlist with some clips that I have found useful over time (including some videos of myself ), I'm pretty sure you will gladly watch some of those once you are getting deeper into the stringing business: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYrw9BAzfs6fJn8KltcIg98q6SaUY0sHV I wish you a good start and a lot of fun as a stringer. Just be sure not to get too frustrated in the beginning.
Wow, thanks! That answered pretty much most of my questions. I already watched like 3/4 of the videos lol. Now I am just waiting for the DC+ to come in about a week or so. Excited for the first-string job!!! Although now I am going to have to go on a string shopping spree...
You might also want to take a lot into the following thread: https://www.badmintoncentral.com/fo...mon-mistakes-with-dropweight-machines.152663/ There were a lot of good advice that helped me avoid any big mistakes. And whatever you do: Never(!!) apply any pressure on the drop weight bar in case it rests above horizontal! Sounds logical, I know, but I know for a fact that this happens far too often and results in completely inconsisten results and broken frames in a worst case.
My only advice is to make sure you have a comfortable height. Your neck will thanks you for the 1 hour long standing.
When I first start stringing, should I string it on my worst racket with the cheapest string possible? Do that several times before moving onto my main racket? Please recommend me cheap string lol.
Personally, it made me feel comfortable to fool around with an old racket in the beginning. I think I did two or three test jobs on that one before I moved on to one of my main rackets. On the other hand, the really bad rackets can bit b*tches to string because the holes are not drilled precisely or they come with really bad quality grommets and stuff. As long as you stay in the low-20's lbs. region, there is hardly anything you can do wrong that would kill a racket immediately - just make sure the racket is mounted correctly. Regarding strings, either you get yourself a reel of BG65 which is not expensive and you can surely use it later on for other people's rackets. Or you order something like this: https://www.mybadmintonstore.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25_29_52_88&products_id=247 And just as I'm looking through MBS, I realise that I've missed to recommend perhaps THE most important accessory: A load spreader -> https://www.mybadmintonstore.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=492 That is a MUST when doing badminton rackets. At least on the 12 o'clock position.
Oh, that I don’t know in detail. It’s still not standard that machine actually come with load spreaders, that’s why I mentioned it.
s_mair, I am going to need a lot of help from you for quite a while lol. I got the APDC+, and first impressions were quite bad. Packing was horrid (styrofoam ripped, pieces all over the place). The machine seems to be fine, but I am a new stringer and cannot really tell the quality. Some questions: The tension bar actually goes lower than 3’ o clock, is this a problem? What are these 4 angled supports, and are they placed where they should be? There are 2 places you could put it... Thanks!
Even more questions: 1. 1 piece (2 knots) vs. 2 piece (4 knots) stringing? 2. Top-Down vs. Bottom-Up stringing? 3. What is pre-weave? 4. Manual pre-tension?
First of all, here’s a video that shows the process how you apply tension on a drop weight machine: Goal is that the bar ends up in free balance in a horizontal position. Never apply pressure to achieve that! If it ends up slightly above or below, don’t worry. This will result in a little lower tension (for example a 10 degree deviation equals around 1.5% tension loss which is nothing really). Also make sure that you use the smaller part of the weight only - both parts together will get you into tennis relevant tensions. Positioning the side supports correctly is an important topic too. Good thing is that once you’ve set up everything correctly, your won’t have to adjust much in the future anymore. So you will have to play around with the position of the main towers, the length of the main sports and the position of side support bits to achieve the desired position for the racket. I’ll add some pictures later on how it should look like in the end.
Start with the standard pattern that is advised by Yonex and others: 2-Piece bottom-up. It’s safe, straight forward and can be applied to 95% of all rackets out there. That allows you to focus on your technique. Once you’re comfortable with that you can start exploring other patterns and see what you like. Just follow the tutorial by Alan that I’ve posted. Forget all the other things that you’ve mentioned right now. Those are details you will cover across naturally at some point.
Here’s a good thread that covers the topic really well: http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...ace-the-side-supports-on-your-machine.136358/ If you’re unsure, just post a picture of your setup with a mounted racket. When you tighten the side supports, make sure that they are firmly touching the racket on all four spots (and make sure not to cover a hole with them) but without squeezing the racket in any way. All supports should always be in touch with the racket during the whole string job.
Wow, thanks!!! I kinda feel bad for annoying you with so much questions now, lol. I'm watching videos and fourms for now until my string/load spreader ships in 2 weeks or so. Again, thanks a lot!
Nah, don’t worry. I’ve learned so much from others when I started with stringing, so it’s only fair to give something back to others in the same position.
Okay, so I was "playing" around with the APDC+, and I noticed 2 things: 1. The clamps are hard to move (the base clamps connected to the turntable) doesn't really glide that smoothly, and it gets caught a lot. Is this supposed to be by design??? I figured that ppl should prefer smooth gliding of the clamps so that it is faster... 2. The lock at the base of the clamp to prevent it from moving is moderately tight. When I lock the base of the clamps, it takes some energy - a lot more than I think is reasonable. You can see that his base clamps glide smoothly and require almost 0 energy to lock the base of the clamps. Maybe it is because his machine is probably $2000 more than mine? lol. Also - I checked the sticky threads in this forum about stringing and a lot of videos have expired (rip). For example, Dink's videos are all expired. Is it possible to recover the videos?
The price difference is more like 6000+ USD. So by nature it will be tough to achieve the same smoothness, but it should be possible to get an acceptable result. So my guess is that the bases need some adjustment to make them move easier. Check the manual if it says anything about how to adjust the bases. If it doesn’t say anything in that regard, you can some pictures of the base so that it’s possible to figure out how to tighten/loosen them.
